Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/65124
Wine #10: Prestige from the Ribera The Reveal: Matarromera 2008 ($30) 100% Tempranillo Grupo Matarromera, Hoboken, NJ B odega Matarromera is considered one of Ribera's shining stars. The vineyards are located in one of the region's best plots, Pago de San Román, on the hillside of the western Duero Valley. Winemaker Carlos Moro created the sustain- able, partially subterranean winery in 1988 and in Spain is recognized for his quality grapes: mostly Tempranillo, with smaller plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. His wines are new to the U.S. "Clay and iron thread through clean, cranberry and hibiscus juiciness. Some mint up front of this full-bodied red." —Gabriel Garcia "Incredible use of fig and plum, mixed with earth. Fruity and cherry-scented, with blackberry depth: great structure—a real winner." —Bretton Lammi Wine #11: Modern Bordeaux Style The Reveal: Alion 2007 ($68) 100% Tempranillo Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY A lion was the first 100% Tinta Fino (Tempranillo) wine aged in 100% new French oak in Ribera del Duero. This was considered revolutionary, especially coming from such a traditional bodega as Vega- Sicilia. But the Álvarez family, who founded Alion in 1992, did not want to create a wine that might be considered a second label, and they forged a unique Ribera style. Alion is a great example of properly-ripened Tempranillo. It is fermented in French oak vats and aged in new French oak barrels for 15 months; the '07 was aged in the bottle until its release in 2010. "Concentrated, dark, and serious with an expressive oak edge. The nose is intense with berry and roasted oak notes." —Lucas Paya "A musky, sensual animale nose—this is an Earth Mother: ripe, with blackberry, latte and a tannic center stage that eventually is creamy and complex." —Meridith May Wine #13: From Grower to Producer The Reveal: Astrales 2009 ($40) 100% Tempranillo Grapes of Spain, Lorton, VA H ead-pruned, organically farmed old vines (20 to 70 years old) are the core of Astrales's character: aromatic, lengthy and fresh. The Romera de la Cruz family boasts three generations of growers, and for the past 12 years, thanks to Technical Director/Enologist Eduardo Garcia, they are first-generation wine producers, with a beautiful 72-acre estate in a cool, high-elevation mesoclimate that boasts clay soils, resulting in silky tannins. "Charming and exotically dense: a teeth gripper. Coffee and devil's food middle with a deep black fruited finish. I could drink this all day." —Hung Nguyen "Classic Tempranillo—great balance of fruit and earth with tremendous texture; topped with lively acidity and defined tannins." —Derick Rossmiller Wine #12: The Ribera Blend The Reveal: Montecastro y Llanahermosa 2007 ($45) 96% Tempranillo, 2% Merlot, 1% Garnacha Tinta, 1% Cabernet Sauvignon Classical Wines from Spain, Seattle, WA S uccessful Spanish publisher Alfonso de Salas founded this winery in 2001. The vineyards range in age from eight to 100 years old, sourced from five distinct soil types and elevations that range from 2,100 to 2,500 feet. Often referred to as sophisticated, Montecastro is a rich, hedonistic blend (besides this wine's four grapes, the only other variety allowed in Ribera would be Malbec) aged 18 months in French, American and Hungarian oak. "A deep red center—rhubarb and cherries—amidst a lovely texture (creamy top of the palate). Cedar leads from nose to palate with fine acids, tannins and body." —Kimberley Drake "A dark lady with all her clothes on. Delicious, unctuous—beautifully textured and quite full." —Michael Ploetz Wine #14: A History in Ribera The Reveal: Emilio Moro 2006 "Malleolus" ($50) 100% Tempranillo Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA T he town of Pesquera, in the Valladolid district of Ribera del Duero, lies within an area known for its harsh, continental climate, one of the defining characteristics of the region. High-altitude vines grown on clay, gravel and chalk oversee the Duero River. Emilio Moro is a family-owned winery with over 120 years of winemaking history in Ribera. Intense release Malleolus—meaning "small vineyard"—uses 25- to75 –year-old vines, not only from a single vineyard, but a single parcel. Macerated on the skins for 28 days and aged for 18 months in French oak. "Red fruit and black tea leaves with an abundance of purple flowers from nose to palate. Wonderful mouthfeel: red and black fruit rolls on the tongue in a friendly fashion." —Chloe Helfand "Perfumed violets and brandied cherries, rhubarb and pomegran- ate. Intensely focused; a food beggar with a sweet spearmint finish." —Douglas Kim may 2012 / the tasting panel / 79