The SOMM Journal

December 2017 / January 2018

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  87 Cold Creek's 731 acres are planted to 16 varietals and a few experimental reds, predominately Cab. But there's also Malbec, Grenache, Cab Franc, Mourvèdre, and others that serve as ar tifacts of the site's first planting in 1973, when Tchelistcheff was determining which vari - etals best suited the proper ty. A more recently-established vineyard is Canoe Ridge Estate. Its 559 acres were planted in 1991 in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA and produce Chardonnay and reds like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah under the direction of Vineyard Manager Kari Smasne (rhymes with "snazzy"). Its proximity to the Columbia River keeps the site, located about 100 miles south - east of Yakima, frost free; the warm days and cool nights result in a more elegant and restrained style of Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon than at Cold Creek. "They're easy-drinking wines," Smasne says with a laugh. "In 1991, we were just planting vines. Now we're selecting clones and iden - tifying the sweet spots in our vineyard for the exceptional fruit that makes our vine- yard designate." The rest of the fruit goes into Chateau Ste. Michelle's eponymous label or other tiers such as the Artist Series, Indian Wells, and Columbia Valley. Have there been any failures among the plethora of varieties tried out by Chateau Ste. Michelle? "I've never been happy with Nebbiolo in Washington State," Corliss said, meaning one shouldn't expect Pacific Northwest Barolo-style wines to challenge Merlot's status as King of the Vinous Hill anytime soon. Corliss sums up the reason for the win - ery's success this way: "No matter what bottle of ours you buy, it will overdeliver for the price you pay. We're really good right now, but we're just getting started. At 50 years out, we're just finishing the first gen - eration of plantings and learning so much exciting new information." In other words, you can expect Chateau Ste. Michelle's future will be as sunny as the Eastern Washington climate. "In most vineyards, we try to limit berry size so flavors are concentrated, but Cold Creek is unique." —Joe Cotta

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