Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/913027
{ SOMMjournal.com } 81 { SOMMjournal.com } 81 THE HISTORY The Gaillac AOC harbors the oldest vineyards in southwestern France and keeps the same company as some of the oldest vineyards in the entire country. It's this noble history—along with Gaillac's native variet - ies—that makes the region so very special, and one can enjoy today virtually the same Loin de l'Oeil, a local white wine, that was made around 2,000 years ago. Gaillac's vineyards were established by the Phoenicians during the fourth century B.C., then developed by the Romans. Fast forward through a slew of barbarian invasions to 972 C.E., when Saint-Michel Abbey—today the hub of Gaillac's wine region— was established. It was then that winegrow - ing became one of Gaillac's strongest economical resources, thanks to some fastidious Benedictine monks, and for centuries Gaillac remained one of the most regulated and coveted winegrowing regions in France. One of the oldest wine brands in the world, Les Vins du Coq was born in Gaillac in 1387, although it was not officially recognized until 1501. In the 1700s, Gaillac was hit with a number of punches: a winter that forced winegrowers to replant, wars with the Netherlands and England, the French Revolution, and the rise and favoritism of Bordeaux, eventually forcing Gaillac into the role of Bordeaux's blending wine. The 18th century and part of the 19th did not prove to be any easier. Phylloxera hit in 1879 and in Tarn alone, 45,500 out of the total 60,000 hectares of vineyards (or roughly 112,500 of 148,000 acres) had to be replanted. It took about 30 years to rebuild, and in 1903, one of the first cooperative wine cellars in France set up shop in Saint-Michel Abbey. After a few more setbacks, namely World War I and World War II, Gaillac was awarded its first AOC for its white wines. In the 1970s, the reds were added and today Gaillac can be red, white, or rosé. THE TERROIR Gaillac, in the northern part of the Tarn region, can be less humid than Bordeaux, but winegrowers do rely on the d'Autan, a dry warm wind from east-central Africa, to help temper the humidity and encourage grape maturity. Anchored along each side of the Tarn river—a right bank tributary of Bordeaux's Garonne river—Gaillac offers a variety of soils including clay, limestone, sand, and silex. Its three largest winegrowing areas are zoned as Les Terrasses de la Rive Gauche (left bank), Les Coteaux de la Rive Droite (right bank), and Plateau Cordais (the northernmost zone above the left bank). Les Terrasses de la Rive Gauche, the left bank, consists mainly of allu - vial soils—specifically pebbles, sand, and bank gravel called boulbénes, a French term for fine, easily-compressed soil. The bold red Duras grape is king here, but the Loin de l'Oeil white grape also thrives and is favored for late harvest dessert wines. Domaine la Croix des Marchands, located on a bulbous curve of the Tarn's right bank in Montans, grows about 30 hectares (74 acres) of Loin de l'Oeil, Muscadelle, Duras, Braucol, and Syrah sustainably. Les Coteaux de la Rive Droite on the right bank consists mainly of hillside clay and limestone. It is here where Mauzac and Braucol varieties shine. Domaine des Terrisses is located here and known for its fruity rosés made from Duras. Domaine du Moulin grows 38 hectares (94 acres) of vines on both sides of the river and have been doing so for six generations—almost 200 years. GAILLAC'S GRAPES Here is a list of the grapes commonly found in Gaillac. The asterisk indicates native varieties. Red Braucol* (Fer Servadou) Duras* Prunelart* Syrah Gamay Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc White Loin de l'Oeil* Mauzac* Muscadelle Ondenc* Sauvignon Blanc D1 D8 D5 D3 D1 D3 D7 D7 D27 D90 D100 N88 D73 D33 D25 D6 D32 D988 N88 N112 D71 D84 D30 D83 D43 D964 D631 D600 D999 D964 D964 D87 D87 D600 D30 D8 D14 D14 D18 D988 D988 D630 D38 D87 D10 D4 A68 D10 Vère Vère Tarn Tarn Dadou L'Agout Puycelci Larroque Sainte-Cécile- du-Cayrou Castelnau-de-Montmiral Laborie Lapeyrière Salvagnac Saurs Montans Brens Sainte Cécile d'Avès Broze Montels Vieux Cahuzac-sur-Vère Villeneuve-sur-Vère Le Verdier Saint-Beauzile Campagnac Alos Amarens Souel Donnazac Noailles Cestayrols Lincarque Fayssac Senouillac Floren n Rouffiac Aussac Fénols Lasgraisses Labessière- Candeil Técou Peyrole Parisot Giroussens Coufouleux Loupiac Busque Cabanès Cadalen Carlus Fréjairolles Cambon Cunac Bellegarde Marsal Arthès Saint-Juéry Lagrave Rivières Marssac-sur-Tarn Labas de-de-Lévis Castelnau- de-Lévis Mauriac Boissel Bernac Castanet Sainte-Croix Milhavet Combefa Saint-Benoît- de-Carmaux Bournazel Les Cabannes Vindrac-Alayrac Mouzieys- Panens Virac Campes Livers-Cazelles Caussade Tonnac Vaour Loubers Itzac Andillac Frausseilles Rodez Millau Villefranche- de-Rouergue Castres Castres Toulouse Gaillac Cordes Carmaux Graulhet Lavaur Rabastens Réalmont Lisle-sur-Tarn Saint-Sulpice Albi Rive gauche Rive droite Plateau cordais Noyau de Cunac Zone de Cabanès* Zone de Lavaur* 4 km * IGP Côtes du Tarn PHOTO COURTESY OF IVSOGAILLAC