Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/913027
8 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017/2018 A RECAP OF THE BOULDER BURGUNDY FESTIVAL IN COLORADO Burgundy's Other Regions story and photo by Doug Brown BURGUNDY IS A COMPLEX PUZZLE of vineyards, wineries, and AOCs (the small region supports 100 AOCs, or more than 20 percent of France's appellations). Historically, the complicated smorgasbord of vignerons, landowners, winemakers, and négociants helped keep a lid on prices— consolidation in Burgundy does not come easy. But more recently, rocketing demand among collectors has led to dramatic price hikes. Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays from Burgundy now are some of the most expensive wines in the world. Still, Burgundy offers value. People attending this year's Boulder Burgundy Festival in Boulder, Colorado, for example, sipped $360 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru—decidedly the heart of Burgundy. But they also tasted some lovely $40 Chardonnay from winemaker Alain Gras in Saint-Romain, a lesser-known region within the Beaune that is perched above Meursault and Pommard. "In Saint-Romain, there are no Grand or Premier Crus; it's all village wine," said Tommy Oldre of Vineyard Brands, which represented the wine at the festival. "It always has a strong mineral core, a great tang, and good energy." Another under-the-radar AOC within an acclaimed region—this time the Côte de Nuits—is Marsannay, where winemaker Sylvain Pataille conjures beauty from Burgundy's "other" white grape, Aligoté, as well as produc - ing a variety of soulful whites and reds. "In Burgundy, look for the more humble wines from classic producers, like Sylvain," said Tony Zezas with Harvest Wine Company, which represented Pataille's wines at the festival. "Sylvain's rouge comes from a single vineyard, which is very unusual." Pataille bought 15 hectares of vineyards in Marsannay because he could—land is expensive, but not prohibitively so. Comparatively affordable land, combined with a changing climate, is helping boost the quality of Burgundy's other regions, according to festival founder and Master Sommelier Brett Zimmerman. "Wines of the Mâconnais, for example, have improved quite a bit during the last couple of years," Zimmerman said. "Climate change is add - ing more ripeness to the grapes, and the influx of quality producers heading to these satellite appellations is enhancing the winemaking." Selling the wines offers challenges and opportunities. William Davis of wine importer Wilson Daniels said one differ - ence between the lesser-known regions and the famous ones is typicity—Burgundy enthusiasts might understand classic Pinot from Volnay, but when a Chardonnay comes from Saint-Véran, impressions are not always crystalline. "It's one thing to wax poetic about Meursault, and that is because of a track record and a library of information. That is something we don't necessarily have with quality producers even from Pouilly-Fuissé," said Davis. "I'm not sure many of us are ready now to say, 'OK, I get Pouilly-Fuissé.' But that will come in time." Master Sommelier Brett Zimmerman points to a vineyard in Fixin, Burgundy. first press