Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/913027
106 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017/2018 The fruits of our labor came in the form of artisanal sandwiches, rosé, and bubbles on the back patio overlooking the estate. The somms directed question after ques- tion toward Maloney, who openly discussed everything from color management to tannin extraction to alcohol. "At the end of the day, flavor trumps chemistry," he explained in regards to Brix and alcohol. "If you're picking on flavor, the sugar is going to change year to year." After lunch we made a quick stop at Saitone Vineyard, located in the Olivet Bench. The 17-acre own-rooted vineyard was planted in 1895 and is representative of the typical "field blends" of the day; it's made up of primarily Zinfandel, along with scatterings of Petite Sirah, Alicante Bouschet, Carignan, and Palomino. The whites are separated out while the reds likely end up co-fermenting together, producing an intriguing Zinfandel that we enjoyed while walking through the property. Our mentorship programming con - cluded with an insightful retrospective tasting from two of DeLoach's vineyard partners located in the Sebastopol Hills of the Russian River Valley: Tom and Rebecca Kisaichi from Maboroshi Vineyard and Joe Pennacchio and his son, Mark, with Pennacchio Vineyard. The two vineyards are situated very close to one another with essentially the same soil types, but Maloney asserted that "a very different aspect and exposure into that wind and fog coming off the Petaluma Gap, I think, makes for dynamically different wines." The somms had an oppor tunity to sit with the growers and enjoy the 2012, 2013, and 2014 wines side by side. Maloney was curious to see if the somms found similarities among the wines and added his thoughts: "To me, these wines, despite their geographic proximity, taste like they are structurally from a different world, and by that I mean the impression in your mouth. They both have a really pretty, satiny feel that I think you find in all Sebastopol Hills wines, but Pennacchio is just a bigger wine overall." Fred Ghiassi, General Manager for Terra Restaurant at Eataly L.A. in Century City, California, agreed and offered his own impression. "I think both wines have this really interesting, expressive tannin," he said. "I think one year is a little longer and another a little softer, but they're there. And I'm going to go ahead and say it—I think they're Burgundy-esque." We said our goodbyes to the vineyard partners and headed to the back patio for a casual sunset barbeque from the DeLoach garden; the meal featured a handful of very different wines from the Boisset Collection. The exemplary expressions of knowledge and hospitality our group of somms expe - rienced at DeLoach were clearly fueled by the team's passion for what they do, making the experience truly memorable. Somms sort Pinot Noir from Ferguson vineyard. Fred Ghiassi, General Manager of Terra Restaurant at Eataly L.A., offers his impression of the lab sample analysis from harvest activities. Natalie Clement, Sales Representative for Caroline Wine & Spirits in Boston, digs Pinot Noir out of wooden tanks.