Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/7240
march 2010 / the tasting panel / 39 Roby loves the challenges of harvest. "I love the beginning of the harvest; each is quite different. Ev- ery year you face new problems that need to be solved; the vines behave differently as time passes, so you get distinctively unique wines each harvest. Another big challenge—and perhaps the most important of all—is to produce a better quality wine every time, and one that will click with the consumer palate." Roby comments on her role as a woman in the wine industry in a machismo-infused country like Ar- gentina, admitting, "The wine world is traditionally very masculine— especially here in Argentina—and because of that it has been difficult for women to encourage themselves to work in winemaking and viticul- ture. There are still restaurants that offer the wine list just to the men, ignoring the fact that women might also have good wine knowledge." Because Roby has made a name for herself—and has a list of aca- demic accomplishments to back up her experience—she feels privi- leged. "Today I feel quite comfort- able and respected. Women's roles have changed quite a lot in the winemaking business. People real- ize and acknowledge that women have a special sensitivity that is very welcomed." Roby relates that there have been some amazing changes in Argentina during the last decade. "Vineyard management has increased expo- nentially, exports have achieved a strong pace, wineries have quickly been updated technologically and there was a switch from volume to quality. Today, Argentinean winer- ies focus on producing powerful but elegant wines, with defined fruit character, aiming to produce fresh and balanced releases. There has been also an increasing number of emerging boutique wineries mak- ing excellent wines, which helps to create an image of a diverse industry among the traditional big wineries; this helps drive exports." Imported by TGIC Importers Winemaker Clara Roby. The glorious view of the Andes from Kaiken Vineyards. Just as the kaiken, a wild goose indig- enous to Patagonia, migrates between Chile and Argentina, Chile's celebrated Montes Wines has crossed the Andes into Argentina in order to produce wines that are the result of Mendoza terroir and the work of talented professionals, both Chilean and Argentinean. The Kaiken Ultra 2007 Malbec (SRP $24) combines deep, dark chocolate and espresso with a core of high acidity, balanced fruit expressiveness and a gor- geous, sweet vanilla toasted finish. The Kaiken 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (SRP $14) offers up a bouquet that sells you abundant fruit and dazzling spice and yet manages to over-deliver on the palate. Black fruit, juicy plums and licorice play amid this structured New World red. selected Kaiken releases