Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/7240
38 / the tasting panel / march 2010 "When you use pesticides," con- tinues Caligiore, "you are killing the plagues in the vineyard, but also all of the beneficial insects and organisms that keep the ecosystem stable. Using pesticides is like us- ing a phone book to swat a fly— you will likely kill the fly, but what damage will you do to the room? "Going organic—and following through with it—is a hard job. It is difficult to devote such a huge effort to preserving the expres- sion of the terroir, but I find it rewarding. The most difficult part is that there are no recipes, no single tricks or techniques that always work; you must just keep reading the nature, the vines, the soil, and with experience over many years, you find what your piece of land needs and wants to produce its best wines. Commit- ted people in the vineyard and winery are the only successful tool, and I am lucky to be sur- rounded by them at Caligiore." Caligiore concedes that indi- vidual tastes vary, especially when it comes to organic wines from old vines. "But what I can assure you of is that you are drinking the direct expression of the grapes grown in a natural and equilibrat- ed environment, where ancient practices have been followed and huge effort has been expended to preserve that expression—from the roots, to the grapes and, finally, into your glass." Imported by Marquee Selections selected caligiore releases "What you achieve is what the land can offer every year, with normal weather variations from year to year," says winemaker Gustavo Caligiore. "Our motto and the words we live by at Caligiore: The soul of the land turns into wine!" While all the Caligiore reds have a depth and concen- tration in common, the Caligiore 2007 Bonarda Reserve (SRP $14.99) hints at fig and chocolate, but is outspoken when it comes to cherry and boy- senberry. (A varietal with the same name is found in Italy, but is thought to be different from the Ar- gentinean version.) This powerhouse is somewhat sweet and smoky, with a dab of white pepper, and requires some big-flavored meats for accompaniment. The Caligiore 2008 Malbec Reserve (SRP $14.99) begins as a rich, juicy and fruity wine. It soon morphs when its high acid middle comes into play. This bold wine, from grapes grown on 75-plus- year-old vines, ends up with dry tannins and a divine blueberry richness. The Caligiore 2008 Grazioso Torron- tés (SRP $9.99) is an organically-grown floral beauty with an exotic side. Ginger, mango and kiwi are part of the ride. As its name suggests —grazioso is a musi- cal term that defines a light, flowing, graceful style—this white is fresh and elegantly played. C lara Roby grew up in a family who had a deep understand- ing of the land. "My grand- parents were agriculturists," she says. Appropriately, Roby studied bromatology—the study of food and alimentation—and then agronomy, the science and technology of plant usage, encompassing work in the ar- eas of plant genetics and physiology, meteorology and soil science. "I started in 2002 at [LVMH-owned] Terrazas and Chandon," says the winemaker, "where I worked in the vineyards. To complete my profes- sional studies, I did a harvest in Washington State and a postgradu- ate degree in vineyard quality con- trol, planning and management." Living in Mendoza, "the land of sun and wine," she quickly became interested in enology. "I took control of the winemaking operations, but maintained my interest in the vine- yards. Once you start in the world of wine, it is very difficult to let it go; it's a really fascinating business." cover Story With a glass of Caligiore Malbec in hand, Megan Cribb is the Marketing Director for importer Marquee Selections. SPOTLIGHT ON: clara roby, Kaiken Kaiken is an Argentinean label from Chile's highly respected Montes Wines. Kaiken Ultra is the brand´s top tier.