The Tasting Panel magazine

MARCH 10

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46 / the tasting panel / march 2010 S hawn McClain, celebrated chef and owner of Chicago eater- ies Spring and Green Zebra, has ventured west to become a part of the fine dining tapestry at Aria at Las Vegas's CityCenter where he has opened Sage. The name, in the chef's words, "signifies locally grown produce, as well as giving a nod to good balance and truthful intent in our food." His globally-influenced contemporary American concept is accented with Mediterranean over- tones and an emphasis on artisan meats, sustainable seafoods and fresh, seasonal ingredients. Appetizers include original delicacies such as Wagyu beef tartar with pickled mustard seeds and crispy chocolate, or foie gras custard brûlée with toasted cocoa nibs. Entrées encompass flavorful creations like roasted loin of Ibérico pork with braised baby romaine lettuce and violet mustard, Belgian ale–braised short ribs or braised veal cheeks with confit peppers "piper- ade" and Picholine olives. In keeping with Sage's dedication to seasonality, the restaurant's cut- ting-edge mixologists infuse fresh fruit purées, boutique liquors and home-made bitters into unique cock- tail offerings. For example, the Desert Shrub is made with tequila, Prosecco, pink grapefruit and purple sage, while the Tea Rose Martini is made with black tea infused Hanger One vodka, fresh lemon, rose water, St- Germain elderflower liqueur (added just before shaking so as not to over- sweeten) and roasted pine nuts. "It is our intent to experiment with multiple types of bitters and feature them in our signature drinks," says Chef McClain. "Currently we have been focusing on two—an orange- based and a grapefruit-based bitters. With a focus on craftsmanship in cocktail making, it makes sense to give the bartenders as many tools as possible to utilize. There are very good bitters on the market, but with house-made bitters, you can get more nuanced traits in your cocktails." Combining seasonal infusions, purées and an avant-garde menu, Shawn McClain is truly a "sage" chef indeed. —Richard Carleton Hacker Chef Talk Sage Advice CulinAry CounSel from one of AriA'S top ChefS At CiTyCenTer lAS VegAS Bartender Aaron Baca at Sage carefully counts out the toasted pine nuts that make up part of the taste profile of the restaurant's exclusive Tea Rose Martini. PHOTO: RICHARD CARLETON HACKER PHOTO: RICHARD CARLETON HACKER PHOTO COURTESY OF MGM/MIRAGE Chef Shawn McClain's Vancouver Island Kusshi oysters with piquillo pepper and Tabasco sorbet with aged tequila mignonette is complemented by a 2006 Côtes du Rhône Clos du Caillou from North Berkeley Imports. A Milan to Manhattan cocktail, made with Bulleit bourbon, Giuseppe Car- pano Antica Formula sweet vermouth and garnished with a lemon twist is in the background.

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