Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/688647
{ SOMMjournal.com } 97 SEMINAR: NEW FRONTIERS IN ITALY'S TRADITIONAL WINE REGIONS City: Houston by Anthony Head / photos by Felix Sanchez It was nearing the end of the day in Houston and the Cru Artisan College crew continued putting the class through its paces. Led again by Lars Leicht and Headmaster David Keck, Advanced Sommelier, co-owner of Camerata at Paulie's and co-founder the Houston Sommelier Association, the penultimate seminar promised to again demonstrate the point that the more you know, the more you really don't know. In this case: traditional Italian wine regions. Naturally, there was a textbook's worth of aspects of the Luna Mater are attributed to soils that are "lean, deep and rich in potassium and microelements—fundamental characteristics for the wine," Merz said, adding that the midday breeze, called the Ponentino, mitigates the heat of the day and is "the only thing in Italy that runs on time." The winemaker said, "We're demonstrating the fact that a white wine from a warm climate in central Italy can evolve and improve over time like Sophia Loren." Mason noted he was impressed with the weight and depth of the wine—a blend of two Malvasias, Bombino and Greco—without a lot of oak influence. Faro Palari, the blend from Sicily, included seven grapes, only one of which—Nerello Mascalese—was familiar to the class. Professor Salvatore Geraci noted that, similar to Pinot Noir, Nerello Mascalese was a challenge to vinify, but he said, "When you get it right, it gives a great deal of satisfaction." His wine was produced from low-yielding old vines planted by his grandfather, terraced in stone walls and head-trained to allow the roots to push deep. His wine, he said, "makes a love story when it's matched with seafood and grapes, capers, raisins, tomatoes." Faro Palari paired with sepia alla Livornese with tomato and sweet Taggiasca olives. The final wine to chal - lenge wallflower status was Marsala Superiore Riserva Targa Riserva 1840 Florio Sicilia, made of 100% Grillo. Benedetta Poretti, whose family created the Disaronno brand, called the semi-dry Marsala she presented "a fun wine with an interesting history that you can do a lot with." "This is definitely not your grandmother's Marsala," said Lars Leicht. Poretti added, "Not many wines have the ability to be matched with so many different things." The final pairing par tnered the Marsala with olive-oil poached trout with roasted onions and mushrooms, giving it "an umami level of depth and sweetness." Mason called it "the one that was the most 'out there.' " He was leaning towards nuts or sweets, but after conferring with Leicht, he switched to the savory side to tease out the wine's paradoxical aspects. His intuition was spot on: This odd couple was the favored pairing of the class. Special guest speakers: Eduardo Prot Carrerio (Beverage Director, Untitled and Studio Café at the Whitney) and Michaël Engelmann, MS, Wine Director, The Modern) Martha Washington Hotel, New York, NY. Wines of "What's Old is New Rescue Me" seminar: Florio Targa Reserva, Palari Faro, FB Lambrusco di Sorbara, and Luna Mater. Behind the scenes powerhouse, Elisa Trapani (Administrative Coordinator, Cru Artisan), checks-in "student" Carmelo Mauro (Owner, Carmelo's Ristorante Itaiano) with the help of Diane Cappetta Nares (CSW, So. Ca District Manager San Diego, Palm Springs, & Riverside Counties, Banfi), while "professors," Andrea Satori (Family Proprietor, Sartori di Verona), and Gabrielle Pazzaglia (Castello Banfi Cellar Master) welcome their pupils. Lars Leicht and Headmaster of the Houston CAC David Keck (General Manager/Wine Director, The Camerata at Pauli's Wine Bar and now Master Sommelier!) prepare for a seminar. University of Houston, Houston, TX.