The SOMM Journal

June / July 2016

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  7 ficult to tell at first, but simply touching the labels one can feel the texture of the oak. The differences between the two grains are subtle with perhaps a slight tinge in color when turned at an angle. "Maybe it's a little bit out there," Whittemore says smiling proudly, "but I think it really translates to the experience where everyone that tastes this is going to have their own determination about what French oak is to them and what American oak is to them, and which one they like better." The results of the project? Hurliman fully expected to notice differences in aromas and flavors but the results surprised him. "I don't think I expected to see the dif - ferences in texture," remarked Hurliman noting excitedly that the mouthfeel of the French oak was much rounder while the American was more angular. "It's a wonder - ful thing to do something for 30 years and all of a sudden you have a kind of epiphany that happens in winemaking that makes you think, ah, that's very interesting!" The Wines Herzog Wine Cellars 2014 Variations "American Oak" Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast ($35) The oak is more apparent on the nose compared to the French, with smoky aromas of barbecue and subtle hints of mint chocolate laced around a core of dark, plummy fruit. On the palate, the wine is softer and silkier than the French but with more apparent dark fruit, caramelized flavors and spice. Plump, smooth tannins with mouthwatering acidity that creates a long lasting finish. The weight of the wine feels heavier in texture and silkier than the French but overall with more apparent aromas and flavors. Herzog Wine Cellars 2014 Variations "French Oak" Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast ($35) Savory aromas of braised meat, bees wax, black currant, corian - der and subtle hints of dark chocolate. As it opens the aromas become more apparent with notes of raspberry, black cherries and strawberries. Savory dark red fruit with flavors of black cherries, mushrooms sautéed in red wine and butter and hints of sage. The wine begins to soften as it opens with beautiful mocha like tannins. The flavors are quite integrated compared to the American.

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