The SOMM Journal

June / July 2016

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42 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } JUNE/JULY 2016 Planeta 2013 Eruzione 1614 Nerello Mascalese was grown on the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna in nor theastern Sicily, surrounded by a lava flow that dates from 1566. The nose has a subtle smokiness, with a touch of rose petals and herbs. A smooth, integrated palate shows rich dried fruit, sour cherry and spice, with tannins softened by a bit of oak. This elegant wine was a brilliant par tner for many dishes, light and soft enough for Chinese chicken and shiitake lettuce cups, but rich enough to hold its own with the kalua pig quesadilla and Danish bacon- apple-mushroom tar t. Stephen Reustle and his Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards 2014 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd drew massive crowds to their table from the moment the reception began. This remarkable Grüner from southern Oregon has all the hallmarks of its Austrian cousins—mineral, focused intensity with a rich satin texture and racy acidity. Bright lemon zest, white pepper and spice unfold into lusher notes of lanolin, apricots and chamomile tea. The elegantly balanced aromatics and laser- focused acidity made this wine a versatile partner for many dishes, including the challenging Danish herring canapés with their layers of pungent, pickled flavors and aromatic spice. Reustle planted his Grüner Veltliner vine - yard in the foothills of Oregon's Umpqua Valley in 2003, after exhaustively researching the soil and climate of the site. He released the first commercially available U.S.-grown Grüner in 2005, and his wines have domi - nated wine competitions ever since. Grapes for this 2014 Smaragd were hand-harvested from Prayer Rock and Romancing Rock Vineyards, whole-cluster pressed and inoculated in stainless steel, then aged five months sur lie in the tanks. Reustle says of his winemaking approach, "We are sensitive to high alcohol levels and overripe fruit flavors, preferring instead to target phenolic ripe - ness and expression of terroir." S c h l u m b e r g e r 2011 Riesling Grand Cru Saering is one of the eight Grand Cru estate wines grown by Domaine Schlumberger on the slopes of the Vosges Mountains in Alsace. The winery has been family-owned since its founding in 1810, and today is run by the sixth and seventh generations of Schlumbergers. This wine is all citrus and honey, with powerful lemon and yuzu aro - mas on the nose and palate. Rías Baixas made a strong showing with two zesty, versatile Albariños—the Pazo Señorans 2014 and Granbazán Etiqueta Ambar 2015, both from the Salnes Valley. The Pazo Señorans shows vibrant acid structure and fruit intensity, with a smoky minerality and textured leesy character emerging on the palate. Floral notes and spice round out the picture. Granbazán Etiqueta Ambar Albariño also has remark - able finesse as well as soft leesy aromas thanks to five months of sur lie aging. Stone fruits and minerals predominate on the palate, with aromatic orange citrus and bright acidity carrying the wine to the finish. William Hill 2013 Napa Valley Bench Blend Chardonnay ably represented the Napa Valley home team with its union of cool-climate fruit from Carneros and lush, tropical Chardonnay from much-warmer St. Helena. Toasty oak, baking spice and caramel aromas frame the juicy apple and pear core, balanced by bright Carneros acidity. Ahi poke with furakake tapioca chips showcased Chef Tom Wong's super talent. Phoebe Champion, Northern CA District Manager for Terlato Wines poured Shimizu-No-Mai Pure Dusk Junmai Daiginjo Saké.

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