Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/688647
{ SOMMjournal.com } 101 three tiers: Steinfeder, Federspiel and the most prized, Smaragd. Named for a local feathergrass, Steinfeder wines are lively and light, dancing on the palate with a maximum 11.5% ABV. Federspiel wines, their name referencing a device used to beckon back the bird in falconry, features more body and soaring nuance, and by decree have between 11.5% and 12.5% ABV. Finally, the gold standard of Grüner Veltliner, the preeminent and marquee expression of the grape in the world, is named after a little green lizard: Smaragd wines have a minimum 12.5% ABV as these grapes of greater maturity have achieved layers of concentrated flavor and finesse. Glass in hand, standing between rows in the revered Achleiten vineyard, our traveler observes one of the emerald (smaragd) lizards in its natural condition, basking in the Wachau sun. The traveler raises the glass in a silent toast, both creatures reveling in the glory of Austria's native son's eminence on the world wine stage. Fred Loimer 2014 Grüner Veltliner "Lois," DAC Kamptal A faint straw color, this wine features notes of limestone, candied lime, nec- tarine and hay with a soupçon of chamomile tea on the nose. The palate is lifted almost to the point of effervescence with the added essence of savory pear skin and a lingering citrus finish. THE WINEBOW GR OUP Rudi Pichler 2014 Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Terrassen, Wachau Delicate aromatics include bruised apple, under- ripe honeydew and snap peas. Layered on the nose are also notes of white flowers, honey and a nutty quality. Grass and apricots tantalize the palate with a moderate acidity and a lengthy, elegant white pepper finish. THE WINEBOW GR OUP Stadt Krems 2014 Grüner Veltliner, DAC Kremstal While not aggressively aro- matic, notes of white flow- ers and rain-soaked rocks prevail alongside celery, honeysuckle, mandarin and ginger. The mouthfeel is round and succulent with white peach and savory cooking spices. THE WINEBOW GR OUP Prager 2014 Grüner Veltliner Weissenkirchen Federspiel Hinter der Burg, Wachau Accompanied by a lustrous yellow color, this wine showcases a plenitude of aromas and flavors. The nose features prominent pepper, kum- quat, celery, green apple, wasabi, top soil and wet rock. A racy acidity and angular palate confirm notes of bitter arugula and basil and even a hint of spearmint. The finish is long and palate-cleansing. THE WINEBOW GR OUP Wieninger 2014 Grüner Veltliner Vienna Hills The aromas give the impression of sweetness, with mandarin, apricots and peach along with quali- ties of herbs, pink sea salt, and Ruby Red grapefruit. Bright acidity greets the palate followed by a spicy mid-palate and con- cluding with a limestone, mineral finish. THE WINEBOW GROUP Pfaffl 2015 Grüner Veltliner vom Haus, Niederösterreich This wine has a tropical per- fume, notably ripe mango accompanied by herbs, pep- per, baked apple, powdered- sugar lemon tart and candied lime. Tangy and ripe on the palate, this offering is simple yet charming. PALM BAY INTERNATIONAL Pfaffl 2014 Grüner Veltliner Goldjoch, Weinviertal DAC Reserve Fragrances of sweet orange, fresh earth, and honey harmonize with a velvety mouthfeel with notes of pineapple and melon. A mature and complex wine, the finish is lengthy and textured. PALM BAY INTERNATIONAL Pfaffl 2015 Grüner Veltliner Haidviertal, Weinviertel DAC A juicy and robust bouquet features freshly cracked black pepper, ripe peach, lemongrass, wet rock and limestone. The mouthfeel is weighted and generous of stone fruit with a min- eral finish. PALM BAY INTERNATIONAL Malat 2013 Crazy Creatures Grüner Veltliner, Kremstal DAC The nose highlights essences of cherry blos- soms, layers of lemon and lime, wet rock and surpris- ingly, a pleasant petrol note reminiscent of riesling. The palate is angular and bright with notes of lime and spice followed by a cleansing finish with a hint of tea leaves. Stift Göttweig 2013 Grüner Veltliner Gottschelle, Kremstal DAC Reserve Celery, herbs, pepper, lime skin and a slight barnyard quality are showcased on the nose. The palate is muscular and lively, with welcoming impressions of pepper, stone fruit and prominent pear and a lingering finish. Ingrid Groiss 2014 Grüner Veltliner, Wienviertel DAC Redolent of white pepper, pear, white peach, gravel and grass on the nose, this wine transitions gracefully to the full, opulent palate with generous quince, lemon and lime. The mouthfeel is juicy with a lifted acidity and pleasant finish whose final impression is complex and rewarding. CIRCO VINO Meinhard Forstreiter 2015 Grooner Grüner Veltliner, Niederösterreich Pink grapefruit, pistachio, lemon tart, hibis- cus and marzipan provide this wine with a very pleasing bouquet. Hints of green apple emerge on the palate. Freshness reigns in this lively, easy-drinking wine. FREDERICK WILDMAN AND SONS Emmerich Knoll 2014 Grüner Veltliner Ried Loibenberg Smaragd, Wachau Entry of the nose into the glass proves instantly pleasing and seductive. White flowers, mandarin orange and a soupçon of cus- tard charm alongside added notes of lime and honey. The palate is balanced and rich, with touches of brioche, honeycomb and chamomile and a luscious finish. CIRCO VINO TASTING NOTES