The Tasting Panel magazine

June 2012

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Gekkeikan: A Saké Innovator Dassai Ginjo "50" YAMAGUCHI PREFECTURE This user-friendly saké is really easy to drink, showing an ultra-clean style. Technically labeled as a junmai ginjo, this saké shows off its seimaibuai polish on the label, "50," a style that is becom- ing more popular by the minute. This could easily pass as a junmai daiginjo by other the standards of other kuras, but not for Dassai—this kura produces only textbook-standard quality saké. MUTUAL TRADING COMPANY Founded in 1637, Gekkeikan has been instrumental in the development of the modern saké trade. They were the first to use glass bottles and the first kura to brew saké all year long, in addition to numerous other accomplishments. Nearly 400 years later, they're still making some of the finest-quality saké that Japan, and California, produce. Now celebrating its 40-year partnership with Sidney Frank Importing, Gekkeikan certainly has reason to celebrate. After centuries of success in Japan, Gekkeikan opened the doors to their brewery in Folsom, California in 1989, to supply the growing demand for saké in American restaurants. I recently spoke with Yoshi Yumoto, Vice President and Gekkeikan National Sales Manager. "We chose Folsom California after researching various water sources from Tennessee, Colorado and Washington," he said. "We chose the San Francisco Bay Area for the superior water coming from the Sierra Nevada Mountains." Yoshi said. "We also brought with us the parent rice strain Yamada Nishiki, from which we found the perfect strain suited for the Sacramento Valley, called Cal-Rose." Gekkeikan Zipang Sparkling Saké is a tasty aperitif by itself, but also fronts a new beverage category when mixed with plum wine or fruit liqueurs. Gekkeikan Black and Gold Label, brewed in California, is very dry, mellow and smooth, and can easily be enjoyed warm or cold. The intensity of flavors of this saké (technically a junmai ginjo) is dynamite paired with roasted pork loin or almond- crusted Chilean sea bass. The tête de cuvée of the Gekkeikan saké lineup is TY KU Leading the charge of bringing the saké movement in the mainstream, TY KU offers multiple expressions of saké and soju; junmai (TY KU Silver) and junmai gingo (TY KU Black), coming from Nara, as well as junmai daigingo (TY KU White) brewed in Yamagata. Their citrus soju TY KU Liqueur and TY KU Nigori Coconut Saké are built for the mixologist's hands. The lineup is extremely approachable, with an offering for everyone who enjoys saké and cocktails. The TY KU packaging smartly removes language barrier from the label that has proved problematic for saké consumers in the past. Horin Junmai Daiginjo from Kyoto. It is handcrafted like many small saké micro-brews. Rice used for this ultra-premium offering is polished to 50% of its original size and fermented at a low temperature, yielding fresh fruit flavors that generously expand over the palate. Try this saké with the likes of tuna tartare or fresh Kumamoto oysters. I tend to think of these ginjo and daiginjo styles as the 'white wine' of the saké rainbow." june 2012 / the tasting panel / 69

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