Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/68310
Using Saké On-Premise Saké and food pairing resources are not as readily available as those for wine pairings, nor do they roll off the tongue like "Sauternes and foie gras." Here are some tips from experts. Susan Naderi-Johnston, General Manager of Ame, the restaurant in San Francisco's St Regis Hotel, understands saké on many levels, working with highly decorated Japanese chef Hiro Sone, whose style blends Asian and French techniques. "Saké works well with all types of food as it does not generally compete with flavors but in fact harmonizes or enhances." Susan confirms. "It also offers another dimension of flavors that do not appear in wine. There have been times when I've tasted a new dish seeking a wine Selected Sakés Dewatsuru Shuzo Kimoto Junmai AKITA PREFECTURE Ricey nose with anise, flowers and earth; mellow, rich and full body with bracing acidity. Great balance between saline flavors, nuttiness and gentle sweetness—a definitive kimoto taste compliments of the traditional kimoto brewing method. Perfect for a wide array of protein-rich foods—pan-fried sweet beads, pulled pork sandwiches or roasted veal loin. Umami flavors in this offering touch my palate in ways that wine cannot. WINEBOW Tsukasobaton Junmai Daigingo KOCHI PREFECTURE A saké made in the middle of Susan Naderi-Johnston, General Manager of Ame restaurant in San Francisco. and have hit a brick wall. I've turned to saké most every time in that situation and have had stellar results." Susan further describes a moment of clarity involving Kasumi Tsuru Ginjo Yamahai and a chicken sandwich; "I brought in fried chicken sandwiches to work one day and also had a saké tasting scheduled same day. I tried these together—a match made in heaven! This saké exudes umami and an elevated level of savoriness that makes one's mouth water making it a great pair with fried poultry or even grilled pork chops." Kris Elliott, Saké Specialist at Young's Market Company, confirms, "The range of flavors and temperatures that saké can be served at creates an alcoholic beverage with almost unparalleled versatility. It can pair perfectly with everything from bitter green vegetables to cheese pizza. It really is just a matter of finding the particular saké that matches the dish." "I am a big fan of kimoto-style saké paired with grilled steaks." says Elliott. "The heightened acidity levels created by the kimoto method cuts through the oiliness of the beef while the rich, earthy notes balance perfectly with the smoke and char that comes from the grill." Elliott further describes how we can all be involved in the next step of the saké revolution, "It's really going to take F&B people like us to start drinking saké at home, taking saké to barbecues, or out to your favorite non-Asian restaurants, to get saké beyond the world of Asian cuisine." winter, this junmai daigingo brings the atmosphere of the January-February brewing process to the glass. Truly the perfect saké for sashimi, with an unmistakable freshness evident on the nose. From a brewery (kura) founded in 1603, Tsukasobaton offers faint fruit aromas of honeydew melon, citrus and white flowers, but it finishes dry, with unbelievable balance of "go-mi" (the five flavors of saké: dryness, sweetness, bitterness, acidity and tartness). This is my desert island saké. PRESTIGE SAKÉ 68 / the tasting panel / june 2012 PHOTO: JOHN CURLEY PHOTO: JOHN CURLEY