The Clever Root

Winter / Spring 2016

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9 2 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t Location Inspiration Eric Olson is Executive Chef and Food & Beverage Director of Allegretto's Cello Ristorante. Halibut grilled over oak and fruit wood with Santa Barbara spot prawns, oyster mushrooms, risotto, and local carrots made with passion fruit. "Ginger and tequila are best friends," says mixologist Alexandra Pellot. The combination of housemade gin- ger syrup and tequila are the perfect companions and the lime-caviar garnish makes for a mouth-popping burst of acid and flavor. The juxtaposition of Western art/architecture with the thought and intention of Eastern practices aids in the resetting of the mind and body so that one can truly take in a human experience. A vital part of this is, of course, the culinary experience. At the property's Cello Ristorante & Bar, Executive Chef and Food & Beverage Director Eric Olson enchants guests with his unique, locally inspired menus. Olson is a formally trained chef whose experience both globally and locally (having served as Executive Chef at both Centrally Grown in Cambria and the Ojai Valley Inn & Spa) brings a wealth of knowledge and innovation to the property. Sustainability, both in practice and in choice of ingre- dients, is an integral part of the Chef's philosophy. It's much more than farmers' markets or seasonality; Sustainability also means understanding the local area—not just in terms of what the farmers are growing, but also what the natural surroundings have to offer. Foraging is a big part of that as it creates a truly indigenous dish. The Central Coast is comprised of many unique microclimates. From the ocean, Chef Olson gathers seaweeds kelp and dulse to use in vegan dishes; when smoked, kelp creates a taste similar to bacon. From the land, he forages for berries and acorns. The acorns are made into flour and used in many of the restaurant's baked goods such as their mouthwatering acorn-raisin cookies. Olson prides himself on building strong relationships with many of the local farmers and vendors in the area, including Loo Loo Farms for organic produce and local cheese makers such as Central Coast Creamery. The kitchen itself employs state-of-the-art equip- ment that uses less energy and assists in keeping the foods more nutrient-rich. All proteins begin on a wood-burning grill, which uses a combination of local red oak, fruit wood (apple, plum, almond) and broken-down shipping pallets for use as kindling. Just outside the restaurant patio, they've built bountiful raised beds with a variety of herbs, lettuces and edible flowers. It's evident that Chef Olson has great respect for each of the ingre- dients in his dishes, but what is surprising was his accommodation for all tastes. He thrives in composing off-the menu dishes for those with special diets or nutritional needs. For example, he uses kelp to create a vegan "seafood" dish by marinating or smoking the kelp to give it the same respect he would a protein. "I used to look at it like Harry Potter food, but I continued to experiment and taste, which has inspired these unique dishes that are good for all palates and diets," notes Chef Olson. As a guest, I found myself completely immersed in the full experi- ence of the property. It's not every day that a resort can provide both luxury and authenticity, but Allegretto succeeds in both. I even pocketed a few of the acorns that garnished my plate in hopes of recreating my own culinary escapade at home. ■cr

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