Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/648009
W I N T E R / S P R I N G 2 0 1 6 | 5 9 YUZU (Citrus ichangensis x Citrus reticulata var. austera) is a hybrid between a sour mandarin orange and ichang papeda. e ichang papeda is a relative of the kaffir lime and shares its lemony scent. Its twisty, slow-growing limbs and bitter fruits make it more useful as a landscape plant than a culinary one, but when it hybridizes with sour mandarins, the resulting yuzu acquires a pleasing aroma distinct from all other citrus. Yuzu is widely used in Japanese cooking for its aromatic rind. e fruit is small, usually two or three inches in diameter, with uneven, yel- low skin that's peeled and used fresh as a zest to garnish other dishes, or dried to add fragrance to soups and simmered dishes. e juice is used like lemon juice and is an integral part of ponzu sauce. BUDDHA'S HAND CITRON (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis) is a wild- looking, yellow fruit with many "fingers." Asians use its sweet lemon- blossom scent to perfume rooms and clothing. In the kitchen, its juice- less and pulpless pith and skin can be candied, used to infuse vodka, to enhance limoncello, zested to top steamed tofu or fish, to scent sugar or salt, or in a Buddha's Hand vinaigrette as a salad dressing. AUSTRALIAN FINGER LIME (Citrus australasica) is an Australian native used since time out of mind by the Aboriginal people and now much sought aer by contemporary gourmet chefs not only on its native continent, but around the world—and just since the turn of the millennium. e two- to four-inch cylindrical limes, oen slightly curved, can be pink, green or red, showing more fruit color variation than any other citrus. e reason it's considered "gourmet bushfood" is that its juice is contained in globular vesicles likened to lime caviar, and used as a garnish or added to a wide range of dishes. e fresh vesicles burst into an effervescent, tangy lime flavor as they are bitten. Finger limes are made into marmalade and pickles, and the dried peel is used as a flavoring spice. Many hybrids are being made right now by crossing finger limes with other citrus, so some interesting new fruits will undoubtedly soon be on the way. KUMQUAT (Citrus japonica), which some bota- nists classify as Fortunella margarita, bears heavy crops of either round or oval, orange-colored, 1½-inch fruits in mid to late winter on short, thorny shrubs or small trees hardy to USDA Zone 7 or 8. e fruits are rich in vitamin C. Strangely, the peel is sweet but the juice sour, thus the peels are perfect for candying, sliced into salads, and as garnish for cocktails: olive out, kumquat in for your Martini. Chefs are finding ways to use them in desserts, too. Now You Know . . . Molecular studies reveal that the citron, pomelo, mandarin and papeda are the ancestors of all other citrus species, their varieties and hybrids. In Japan, bathing with yuzu floating in the tub is traditional on the winter solstice. Yubeshi is a traditional Japanese sweet made by filling yuzu shells with sticky rice, soy sauce, and sweet syrup. These are then dried and sliced. Buddha's Hand citron is cultivated as an ornamental shrub in Asian-style gardens, often in containers on porches and patios. It makes a striking appearance when fruiting. Australian finger limes show a marked resistance to phy- tophthora root rot, a troublesome disease of many ornamental trees, so citrus producers are using it as rootstock for other kinds of citrus. Kumquats make a superior marmalade, especially the oval varieties: • 2 lemons, de-stemmed and seeded, julienned into thin lengthwise strips • 1 lb. kumquats, de-stemmed and seeded, sliced into rounds (Note: Reserve lemon and kumquat seeds) • 5 1 ⁄2 cups water • 2 cups sugar • Pinch of salt • 1 ⁄2 tsp. Cointreau Put julienned lemons in a pot with water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes, until lemons are translucent. Drain and discard water. Put the lemons back in the pot. Tie up the citrus seeds in a little cheesecloth bag and put in the pot. Add the kumquats. Add 5 1 ⁄2 cups water. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat, cover, and let stand on the counter for 24 hours. Add sugar and salt. Cook 40 minutes at medium-low heat. Retrieve the bag of seeds and let cool on a plate until cool enough to handle. Squeeze any liquid from the bag back into the pot. Discard bag of seeds. Continue cooking until a candy thermometer reads 220 F. Stir in the liqueur. Ladle the hot marmalade into sterile half-pint canning jars and process in boiling water bath. especially the oval varieties: 2 lemons, de-stemmed and 1 lb. kumquats, de-stemmed and seeded, sliced into rounds (Note: Reserve lemon and kumquat seeds) Put julienned lemons in a pot with water to cover. ■cr