The Clever Root

Fall / Winter 2015

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f a l l / w i n t e r 2 0 1 5 | 8 7 Rick Mahan Chef/owner, Waterboy Restaurant RICK MAHAN opened Waterboy Restaurant in 1996, and prac- ticed a farm-to-fork lifestyle before it grew in popularity. WHILE MAHAN changes his menu as often as daily depending on what produce is available, you can find this beet salad in the summer months. UNIQUE FACTOR: Everyone has heard farm-to-fork and farm-to-table. Wa- terboy was one of the first restaurants in Sacramento to support farm-to-restaurant in Midtown, which is now the hottest ZIP code for restaurants in Sacramento. "Without sounding like a grumpy old guy . . . I love [Farm-to- Fork], but back in the old days we just called it farm-to-restau- rant," says Mahan. "I have developed several relationships with farmers over the years. They grow it, bring it to restaurant and I cook it. Farm-to-Fork has never sat well with me. I wish more farms were being supported by more restaurants. I know how hard farmers work. They work harder than I've ever worked in my life. That said, it's a good thing for Sacramento to take ownership and make it part of our identity. I'd like it if more restaurants were doing more to support this and not just use it for marketing." BACKSTORY: According to Mahan, the Sacramento food scene in general has grown in the past seven to eight years and gotten more interesting than it was before. "When I first opened in Midtown, it was a lonely place," says Mahan. Mahan had a few restaurants in Carmichael when he decided to leave his former partnership to set up shop in Midtown. "I wanted to do my own thing," says Mahan. "I found this location in Midtown and was 36 when it opened. I was very naive and thought people are going to come down here. And you know what? They didn't." Mahan almost went broke the first four years in business, but it finally clicked after five years, and after ten years it got even better. Waterboy has been open for 19 years now. "I love it down here now," says Mahan. "There's a lot of great restaurants that have opened up and we have the nicest clientele. Nineteen years seems like forever. We have customers that started com- ing here when they were five. Now, they're 25 and have kids. That's what I love about this business." FORK: N/A I SNAIL: CHECK FARMS SOURCED: A LOT Mahan explains why he believes Farm-to-Fork is a good thing for Sacramen- to: "e best part about the farm-to-fork move- ment is that it has generat- ed a camaraderie between young chefs and equally as young restaurants and given them a platform to unite. ere is a sense of community among the restaurants that we haven't had before. Because of this alone, the Farm-to-Fork campaign is a good idea. "Practicing farm-to-fork comes at a cost; it's expen- sive to support all these people. I'm not opposed to making money, but I didn't open a restaurant to get rich. At a certain point, it comes down to what you want to do. When I go to bed at night, I want to be okay with what I'm doing." LOOK FOR SNAILS (We're Not Talking Escargots!) Besides giant forks, educated consumers should look for the snail symbol—or Slow Food International certification—on restau- rant websites or menus. While Farm-to-Fork and Slow Food are different, they have similar convictions. Slow Food International believes in good, clean and fair food for all. "Slow Food reminds us of the importance of knowing where our food comes from," wrote Alice Waters, chef, author, food move- ment pioneer, and Vice President of Slow Food International. "When we understand the connection between the food on our table and the field where it grows, our every- day meals can anchor us to nature and the place where we live." The Slow Food movement started in 1986, when McDonald's wanted to open a franchise at Rome's Spanish Steps. The Italians were not pleased, so they protested. Instead of waving signs and chanting, they handed out penne pasta to the crowd that gathered. People began chanting "We don't want fast food, we want Slow Food." That gathering was the birth of the Slow Food movement, officially founded in 1989. the state capital. Food is a major aspect to the community. When you walk into Raley's, the produce section used to just say 'local', but now it lists the farms. Buy- ing locally and eating healthy is the same cost as buying fast food. By increasing awareness of the farms around, it has made healthy food accessible for all walks of life." "The French gave asafoetida a name a while back, calling it the devil's ass because it has a very pungent smell," says Patel. "But when you cook with it, it takes on the flavors of onion and garlic." MARK HERZIG MARK HERZIG ■cr f a l l / w i n t e r 2 0 1 5 | 8 7

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