The Clever Root

Fall / Winter 2015

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f a l l / w i n t e r 2 0 1 5 | 3 1 is their favorite," Terlato says. "These are always the first questions: Which one do you like the best? Which one do you think is the most delicious?" Although Terlato clearly has a finely-tuned pal- ate and can readily articulate facets of anything he is tasting, whether it's a tomato or a Pinot Grigio, it all boils down to that fundamental question: Is it delicious? Because, as Terlato points out, "Deli- cious does not require an explanation. It either is or it isn't." IN SEARCH OF A PERFECT PAIR John Terlato had no trouble selecting six white wines from his family's extensive portfolio as can- didates for pairing with the heirloom tomato and burrata Caprese salad. Having done that, though, he repeatedly re-shuffled the order in which they should be tasted until he felt he had it just right, ("My wife has accused me of sometimes being rather particular" he confessed.) The final lineup: Terlato Family Vineyards 2014 Friuli Pinot Grigio (SRP $22), Chimney Rock 2012 Elevage Blanc (a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris from Napa Valley; SRP $47.99), Anselmi 2013 Capitel Croce (100% Garganega from the Veneto; SRP $29.99), Hanna 2013 Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc (SRP $19.99), Mazzoni 2012 Vermentino-Chardonnay (from Tuscany; SRP $18.99), and Loveblock 2014 Sauvignon Blanc (from Marlborough; SRP $25.99). "There are only a few elements to this dish," Terlato told his fellow tasters. "We have the acidity of the tomatoes, the creaminess and fattiness of the burrata, which is a very specific pH, and salt, pepper and basil. So there's not too much happening in terms of having myriad fla- vors, but while only a few, they're all pretty intense flavors." Terlato started tasting each of the wines, alternating sips with bites of the Caprese salad. "I do this pretty quickly, because I think this is a visceral, instinctual thing," he said. "In their own right, each of these wines are amazing – delicious and at the highest levels of quality. So what I am really searching for is a balance between the acidity of the dish and the wine." He quickly concluded that the fattiness of the buratta highlighted the acidity of the Terlato Pinot Grigio and the Anselmi Gar- ganega, while the flavors of the Chimney Rock Elevage Blanc were flattened out by the same measure. That left the two Sauvignon Blancs and the Vermentino- Chardonnay. In the end, he gave the edge to the Hanna Sauvignon Blanc. ■cr

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