Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/551222
90 / the tasting panel / august 2015 SPEED TASTING REPORT Perhaps to its own detriment, the Soave DOC in Veneto lauds itself as "Europe's Largest Vineyard." The vastness of Soave may sometimes be criticized for its lack of quality and terroir, but the smaller Soave Superiore (aka Classico or Colli Scaligeri) DOCG raises the bar. Bolla, a family-owned winery founded in 1883, has tasked Christian Scrinzi, Head Winemaker since 2009, to ensure that Bolla produces a Soave with a definitive sense of place. With Scrinzi in charge, Bolla's facilities have gone through extensive renovation, and he works closely with long-term grower families and viticulturist Giannantonio Marconi. These efforts had most of the panel guessing anything but Soave, so when Scrinzi revealed the Tufaie Soave Superiore, we were pleasantly surprised. This almost viscous, aromatic version of Soave is left on lees as long as possible, made up of 90% Garganega and 10% Trebbiano di Soave, and goes through temperature-controlled fermentation for 20 days, followed by partial malolactic fermentation. Superiore is an even better version of Soave: Amarone di Valpolicella is considered the best of what the Veneto's larger Valpolicella has to offer. Bolla's Le Origini goes through the traditional and expensive appassimento drying process. After the grapes are dried for four months, a cool pre-fermentation maceration takes place for seven days, followed by a slow fermentation for 25 days, finalized by five more days of macera- tion. The wine then ages on new French oak for one year and Slovenian oak for three years with an additional nine months of bottle refinement. The varietal blend consists of 75% Corvina and Corvinone and 25% Rondinella. According to Scrinzi, "For me the most important thing in a wine, after 25 years of working in this business, is the question: Is it an honest, sincere wine?" In both cases today, I can honestly, sincerely say, "Yes." THE MIRROR: CHRISTIAN SCRINZI Christian Scrinzi is Head Winemaker at Bolla in the Soave DOC. The Somms Speak Tufaie Soave Superiore White flowers with slight citrus; light body, high acid, slight lemon zest and green leaf vegetation. Great with vegetable crudité. —Brad Stewart The nose releases "juice ripe" orchid fruits; the palate explodes with a surprisingly powerful burst of fruit and quickly fades. —Joel Caruso Le Origini Amarone Riserva Fresh, almost minty cherry nut with a hint of cocoa dust, crushed red raspberries, turned earth, leather, pipe tobacco; cassis and macerated pomegranate; candied orange zest and violets; chocolate syrup. —Catherine Morel Mushroom and cherry nose; much more fruit on the palate; dark berry with high tannin that can stand up to anything. Great with steak. —Brad Stewart Bolla's Tufaie Soave Superiore and Le Origini Amarone Riserva