Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/551222
august 2015 / the tasting panel / 91 THE POET: BENEDETTA PORETTI Florio Malvasia delle Lipari and the 2002 Florio Targa Benedetta Poretti is family proprietor at Florio. Maybe it's because they were the last two wines presented by the only woman of the day, but the Florio Malvasia delle Lipari and the 2002 Florio Targa, revealed by family proprietor Benedetta Poretti, garnered the panel's most lively discussion. Off the northeastern coast of Sicily is an archipelago called the Aeolian Islands. Today's golden-colored dessert wine made with Malvasia di Lipari and Corinto Nero grapes comes specifically from the second largest island of the group, Salina—although it is designated Malvasia delle Lipari DOC, a bit confusing since Lipari is another island in the archipelago. Often overshadowed by Marsala, Malvasia delle Lipari is considered Sicily's "other" dessert wine. Florio's version is made traditionally: dried for about 20 days, macerated cold, fermented to the wine's own discretion, then aged five months in oak. The results taste of apricot and citrus. (My tasting notes read, "Bruised peach, cured meat, brown sugar and cloves.") This Malvasia and Marsala have been Florio's specialty for almost two centuries, since 1833. "The winery is very sunny, and for us, you can taste the sun inside of here," said Poretti. Although I suspect she was being literal, I appreciated her modestly delivered poetry. The Marsala, a 2002 Targa Reserva, Superiore Riserva Semiseco DOC had the panel reeling. The terrifically ripe, hand-harvested Grillo grapes go through temperature-controlled fermentation; then the wine is blended with cooked must, fortified must and wine brandy and aged for seven years in oak. Poretti beamed with the panel's praise and added, "This is actu- ally a very versatile wine—we can have [it as] an appetizer, [and is] very good with blue cheese." One panel member adamantly insisted he needed a really nice cigar. In fact, each somm on the panel had his or her own elaborate tasting notes and pairing suggestions, but at the end of the day, we all agreed the 2002 Targa was poetry in the glass. The Somms Speak Florio Malvasia delle Lipari Candied almond and brandy in the nose; candied fruit with a slight nutty finish; this would be great with most fruit des- serts. —Brad Stewart An amazing array of honey-soaked spices. Very nice wine: robust and complex. Sweet and brutal all at the same time. I want more! —Joel Caruso 2002 Florio Targa This Marsala is so savory! Smelling it makes you want to eat. Crème brûlée, walnut, sapid, mineral. Clean and light despite its sweetness. —Jenna Webster A distinctive Sherry-like quality, nutty and oxidated. Cinnamon, brioche, almond, triple cream; finishes with a persistent walnut. —Joel Caruso