Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/551222
august 2015 / the tasting panel / 89 THE MAGICIAN: RUDY BURATTI La Pettegola Vermentino and ASKA Bolgheri Rosso Although he's been with Banfi for over 30 years, Rudy Buratti has been the leading winemaker of Castello Banfi since 1999. He unveiled the La Pettegola Vermentino with the intensity and flare of a magician. He is arguably a magician of sorts, as he was part of the original team that isolated and registered 15 optimal clones of the Sangiovese vine to make consistently outstanding Brunello di Montalcino for Castello Banfi and its particular microclimate. If you don't know already, Castello Banfi is one of the world's best known and respected Italian producers, made up of a bevy of single vineyards, known for blending tradition with innovation. It was also the first winery in the world to be awarded international recognition for exceptional environmental, ethical and social responsibility. Today, Buratti is representing their Tuscan arm with the Vermentino. "We grow these grapes on the Tuscan coast. Vermentino is a varietal that's closely related to Moscato and Sauvignon Blanc. [It] tends to be productive. If you don't hold it back, it can be very generous. It's a fresh, fruity wine. The aromas are liberated. It's captivating." At 100% Vermentino, it ferments up to 16 days in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. The result is a very pretty floral and fruity wine. "Keep in mind that in Italy, Vermentino is the most sold and bought [white wine]. Slowly we're letting the rest of the world in on our secret." It's my understanding a magician never reveals his secrets, but I'm glad he did. The next rabbit Buratti pulled out of his hat was the 2012 ASKA Bolgheri Rosso. After a brief maceration, the grapes (predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, with minor percentages of Cabernet Franc) are fermented for up to 14 days in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. The wine goes though malolactic fermentation, then is aged for ten months in oak barrels before bottle age refinement. Buratti insists, "We've 'Tuscanized' this Cabernet: it's a wine that has more Tuscan character than French or Californian or Chilean. It's a wine that is unique to the area." What struck me about the wine was not its Italian-ness, but its balance. That's hard to achieve, even with magic. The Somms Speak La Pettegola Vermentino Ripe apricot, cantaloupe, raisin, marshmallow on the nose; mush- rooms and eucalyptus and chalk on the palate. Mineral-dry finish. —Umut Kisa Aromatic beauty! Ripe, sweet apricot nose; Riesling-like silkiness, some brininess, petrol with white grapefruit. —Meridith May ASKA Bolgheri Rosso Aromas of Damson plum and tart cherry; notes of dried and fresh strawberry with integrated by ample tannins. It's young, but tastes mature. —Jenna Webster Notes of strawberry, raspberry and earth-wood as well; great for grilled lamb or in pasta. —Brad Stewart The Somms Speak Ferdi Garganega The intensity is fully expressed with aromas of wild flowers, beautiful jasmine and lush grapefruit. Its tart front palate softens as it cleans the tongue; my favorite white. —Sean Van Straatum Tropical fruit, moderate plus acid, pear, white peach; very good to go with West Coast oysters. —Brad Stewart Regolo Rosso Veronese Plum, stewed tomato, licorice, oregano. Cherry notes, strawberry leather finish. Bright and clean. —Jenna Webster Fresh red fruit, violet, lavender and rose on the nose; earthy with a dry finish. —Phillip Dunn dominate. "A famous journalist encour- aged me to make these wines because my day job is an architect," says the winemaker. No wonder these wines are so structurally solid and unique. The Somms Speak 2012 Palari Rosso del Soprano, Sicilia IGT This light bodied wine packs a big punch in a small package. Spice notes of cinnamon and nutmeg unfold. Very nice; lots of fun. —Joel Caruso Dried roses, coastal black cherries, fresh pomegranate, fresh violets; lacquered wood, saddle leather, almost coppery. Dried seaweed, orange zest, dusting of powdered cocoa nibs. —Catherine Morel Palari Faro DOC Strawberry, red fruit nose, light fruit body. There's an elegance to this wine that makes the tannin deceiving. —Brad Stewart Very feminine with strawberry and dried leaves and flower petal. Supple tannins with well-integrated oak. —Jenna Webster Rudy Buratti is Head Winemaker at Castello Banfi.