Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/26650
STEVEN SPURRIER’S LETTER FROM LONDON Wines of Chile Awards T PHOTO: DECANTER he eighth Annual Wines of Chile Awards took place to celebrate the country’s 200th aniversary of indepen- dence from Spain in January in Santiago. In previous years the panels have been made up of tasters from a single country, but this time it was truly international, with 13 judges from nine countries. In alphabetical order of their origins, they were: Jorge Lucki (Brazil), Shari Mogk-Edwards and François Primeau (Canada), Jeannie Cho Lee, MW (Hong Kong), Corinne Eom (Korea), Tomoko Ebisawa (Japan), Andreas Larssson (Sweden), Oz Clarke and myself (U.K.), Josh Greene, Josh Raynolds and Michael Schachner (USA), as well as Chile’s own Master Sommelier, Hector Vergara. The Chilean wine industry, the world’s 8th largest producer and 5th largest exporter (an extraordinary 70% of production) is at a crossroads: In an increasingly competitive market, the present profitability levels are low, making it necessary for the industry to work together to position Chile as a producer of premium and superior wines in order to gain additional image and value. Their Strategic Plan 2020, under the direction of retiring President of Wines of Chile René Merino and Chairman Eduardo Chadwick, focuses on “Diversity and Sustainability.” In my view, no country in the New World is better placed to achieve these aims and, at a time when Argentina, their neighbours across the Andes, has moved ahead in the USA, Canada and Brazil, such a plan is of utmost importance. After three days of tasting 620 wines from 110 wineries, 60% received an award, with 41 Golds, 131 Silvers, 197 Bronzes and 18 Best of Category Trophies. All these may be viewed at www.winesofchile.org. The winery that had the most striking success was Leyda Valley’s Viña Leyda, whose team gained five Trophies: Single Vineyard Garuma Sauvignon Blanc 2010 (also Best Value White), Single Vineyard Neblina Riesling 2009, Single Vineyard Loica Pinot 22 / the tasting panel / march 201 1 Noir Rosé 2009 and Lot 21 Pinot Noir 2009. Viña De Martino was next best with two Trophies: Alto de Piedras Single Vineyard Carmenère 2009 Maipo Valley and Limavida Single Vineyard 2007 Maule Valley. Cono Sur also gained two Trophies with their 20 Barrels Limited Edition Chardonnay 2009 Casablanca Valley and 20 Barrels Limited Edition Merlot 2009 Colchagua Valley. The Trophies are selected from the Gold Medal winners within each category, and it is natural that individuality should stand out, but what these results showed was the importance of single-vineyard, limited-edition wines over blending. On the morning of the Gala Dinner, the judges were asked to give a short presentation on their thoughts for the future for Wines of Chile. Of 13 different approaches, only two—Josh Greene’s “An Appellation System for Chile?” and my “A Need for Regionalisation in Chile”—touched on the idea of specifying differences in terroir more than merely using the names of the valleys. In fact, as René Merino explained, work is in progress on an appellation system that gives recogni- tion to the east-west influences that are seen to be more marked than those north-south. The first step has been to divide the valleys of this very long and very narrow country into three—for example, Aconcagua Andes, Aconcagua Entre-Cordilleras and Aconcagua-Costa, a system already wel- comed by the producers and in the process of approval by the authorities. The second step, to be developed this year, is to recog- nise as broad appellations many areas where there are vineyards without a recognised valley or geographical indication. Then there is a third step, which is to protect the names of certain smaller areas well known for the quality of their wines, such as Apalta for its Rapel Valley reds and Lo Abarca and Limari Valley for their whites. The original European appellations recognised quality and regional differences. It will be the same for Chile.