Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/26650
ITALy Anteprima attendees sample the 2007 Amarones in a blind tasting. y the nature of its production, Amarone della Valpolicella is rightly one of the world’s most complex wines. Known regionally as the “King of Valpolicella” for its powerful flavors, Amarone’s history as a commercial product only dates from 1950, though, as the dry version of the lusciously-sweet recioto style, it has existed for centuries. Amarone—Italian for “the big bitter”—is produced using the age-old practice of appassimento, in which grapes are dried for up to four months prior to vinification. Finished wines then age for three years, and often longer, in barrel and bottle prior to their much-anticipated release in late January. Complex even in youth, Amarone’s impressive ability to develop layer upon layer of flavors puts this revered style in a class by itself. The 2007 Vintage Debut This year, producers who deemed their 2007 Amarones to be ready presented them during Anteprima Amarone, an annual event held in Verona and organized by the Consorzio Tutela Vino Valpolicella. This is comparable to the en primeur of Bordeaux, where the young wines are presented to the global wine trade in a blind tasting and poured by producers for the trade and enthusiasts alike. Sixty-two Amarones made their debut along with many of the region’s corresponding wine styles—Valpolicella, ripasso 82 / the tasting panel / march 201 1 Amarone, Amore! B Highlights of the 2007 Vintage In agronomist Renzo Caobelli’s overview of the 2007 vintage, he noted that Valpolicella producers recorded the OUR SPECIAL REPORT FROM ANTEPRIMA AMARONE 2011 story and photos by Deborah Parker Wong and recioto—resulting in a world-class tooth blackening for attendees. The buzz around this year’s Anteprima was the elevation of Amarone della Valpolicella from DOC to DOCG quality status, a hard-won achievement that goes into effect with the 2010 vintage. While Amarone accounts for just ten percent of the many wine styles produced in the Valpolicella, its popularity is on the rise; producers saw a 40 percent increase and record sales in 2010. Emphasis on Lower Alcohol Traditionally, Amarone has been a high-octane wine; it must have a minimum of 14 percent alcohol and can easily reach up to 18. Over the last ten years, there has been a push by producers to reign in alcohol levels and carefully manage the powerful tannins that are the hallmark of the style, resulting in a satisfying range of full, medium and even leaner-bodied wines. “Producers are moving beyond the muscular approach and exploring terrior,” states Daniele Accordin, Vice President of the Consorzio. On the whole, the 2007 vintage demonstrated that change, with many wines hovering around 15 percent alcohol.