Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/898117
november 2017 / the tasting panel / 75 the past few years have been an undeniable boon for sparkling wine from Italy. Bottomless Prosecco mimosas have decorated brunch tables from coast to coast, and spritzes have been the darling of the summer happy hour set. And while the aphorism that "a rising tide raises all boats" may excite other winemakers, Lucio Matricardi, Ph.D. and Winemaker at Rotari in Trentino, seeks to distance himself and the label's wines from the simplicity of Prosecco. "Italy is emerging as a Charmat producer, but the Italian soil and the Italian grapes deserved so much more than being perceived by the world as just suited to the 'Prosecco style' and 'Prosecco method,'" explains Matricardi. "I have nothing against Prosecco—it is a nice product, to be enjoyed at an apéritif, or to 'start the party,' as Americans say—but Italy is much more than just Prosecco. There are much more complex varieties in Italy than Glera." The Rotari bottles are rotated daily and gradually turned upside down to a vertical position so the sediment from the fermentation can collect in the bottleneck. Produced at the state-of-the-art Rotari winery, these sparkling wines show that Trentodoc is capable of truly stellar offerings. PHOTOS COURTESY OF ROTARI by Karen Moneymaker