Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/898117
november 2017 / the tasting panel / 71 Ancient Peaks 2015 Sauvignon Blanc, Paso Robles/Santa Margarita Ranch AVA ($17) Estate-farmed fruit from Paso's southernmost AVA, with shell fossils galore in the alluvial soil. Taste and smell the minerality, from the herb-laden nose of tarragon, lime, and snap pea to the crisp, clean palate. Honey dew ripeness works well with a fine acidity, a certain salinity of wet stone, and a generosity of tropical fruit. 92 Z. Alexander Brown 2015 Uncaged Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($20) With grapes hailing from Lodi, Mendocino, San Bernabe, and the Alexander Valley that are aged in French and American oak, the aromas are an alluring array of brown-sugared plums, nutmeg, and cocoa beans. Balanced acidity and a perfume that lingers on the nose and palate create an impressive mouthfeel of tart, spice, and dark cherry sweetness. A hint of cinnamon plays well with mocha coffee notes, creating an expansiveness to the dramatic finish. Bravo! 94 Parducci 2015 Small Lot Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendocino County ($14) Spearmint and cherry oak on the nose lead to a dry, rich character on the palate. Anise, blackberry, and vanilla surge forward, with a touch of heather on the finish. 89 Ménage à Trois 2016 Decadence Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($14) "Over the top" doesn't mean unbalanced or over-ripe—or even too much alcohol. In this case, the word "decadence" says it all. Rich from nose to palate, this blend of 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Merlot melds voluptuousness with volume: a sensational mouthfeel that sup- ports acidity alongside a round body. Aromas of sandalwood and chocolate-covered blueberries are as enticing as the taste profile. Kick in some blackberry liqueur flavors and a hint of violets, and the complexity dial goes way up. The finish of bittersweet chocolate and summer plum is memorable, leaving a spiced kiss of cinnamon- vanilla on the tongue. 93 TRINCHERO FAMILY ESTATES Cline Cellars 2015 Ancient Vines Zinfandel, Contra Costa County ($16) Aromas of nutmeg-laden earth and spiced dark cherry lead the way to pungent flavors of rhubarb and root vegetables. Mouth-coating, deep, and intense with a vanilla-strawberry finish. 90 Steele Wines 2014 Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County, California ($21) It's Jed Steele's 25th vintage and his 70th birthday, and we celebrated virtually by tasting this Central Coast-grown Pinot Noir (from plantings in Santa Maria from the famous Bien Nacido and Goodchild vineyards). A perfume of savory plum and raspberry whisper on tilled soil. The flavor profile speaks to spice—subtly seasoning blueberry and cherry oak. 90 Bear Flag 2015 Zinfandel, Sonoma County ($25) Based on a California Republic Proclamation from 1846, this wine offers a nod to Sonoma's place in history. It was the location for the Bear Flag Revolt, a fight for Californian indepen- dence. We see this as a great representation from one of the state's best growing regions for this variety. With 78% Zinfandel, 9% Petite Sirah, 6% Teroldego, 5% Malbec, and 2% other varieties, the majority of the fruit hails from Dry Creek Valley. With classic Zin aromas of peppered nettle and blueberry tart, the palate is rich, dense, and forward. This plucky Zin shows brightness, with a rustic, textured mouthfeel. 93 E. & J. GALLO WINERY Schug Winery 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County ($30) Blended in with Cab Franc, Malbec, Merlot, and Petit Verdot, this wine overdelivers on flavor and mouthfeel. Ripe, with cherry spice and coffee oak, the acidity comes through with fine balance. Aged 24 months in 20% new French oak barrels. 91 Cellardoor Winery 2013 Iron Gate Artist Series, USA ($30) Although this is a blend of 89% single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% single-vineyard Merlot from Yakima Valley, the winery itself is based in Maine. A double-gold winner for Best Bordeaux Blend at this year's San Francisco International Wine Competition, this wine was inspired by the style of Margaux, with New World terroir, sunshine, and ripeness filtered in. The result is a wine with depth and clarity, spicy black currant, tart cherry, and silky vanilla tannins. 92