Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/898117
DEPARTMENT HEADER november 2017 / the tasting panel / 63 In an industry that sees a vast array of vintages opened daily, confirming a decrease in cork taint can be challeng- ing. Yet, we can count on the majority of consumers who open a purchased bottle within 48 hours to give us an idea of today's benchmarks. "I never question or challenge when someone brings a wine back," says Fisch. "That said, ten years ago, we got a lot. I would say one in ten or one in eight were coming back. I'm seeing a lot less of that. Whatever they're doing, I think they've come a long way in perfecting the product." A Sustainable Approach Contrary to traditional forestry, cork production is both ecologically and economically sustainable. The trees are never cut down during harvest; instead, the bark is peeled off like an onion skin every nine years and regenerates between harvests, which allows a single tree to be harvested roughly 15 times throughout its lifecycle [See section on common myths for more details]. Cork trees play a critical role in our global effort to combat climate change. In addition to adding oxygen to the environment through photosynthesis, the trees sequester significant amounts of carbon dioxide (CO2); one cork stopper can retain 112 grams of CO2 (roughly twice its weight). Ironically, harvesting increases the tree's seques- tration by five times on average. Production also protects the cork forests, or montados, by making them economically viable for landowners. According to Patrick Spencer, Founder of the Cork Forest Conservation Alliance (CFCA), 90 percent of all cork forests are owned by individual farm- ers whose families have been harvest- ing cork for generations. "One aspect about cork that I think is fascinating is the fact that cork oak forests are a great example of where humans and nature are working together to create the best quality product from a natural resource," asserts Rui Ferreira. Cork harvesting is also one of the highest paid agricultural jobs in the world, with salaries of up to 125 euros, or roughly $150, per day. Spencer, who also serves as the Executive Director of Cork ReHarvest, is a passionate advocate for the people of the cork forests. In his travels to learn more about natural cork, he met a Natural cork continues to dominate the market share, as most winemakers and consumers still hold firm trust in the material when it comes to aging wine. Gary Fisch, Owner of New Jersey– based Gary's Wine & Marketplace, has been in the wine business for more than 30 years and is pro-natural cork closures: "I'm more comfortable selling natural cork–enclosed wines of higher quality than I would be screw top."