Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/793596
march 2017 / the tasting panel / 77 Ancient Peaks 2014 Renegade, Paso Robles ($24) Grapes grown on ancient sea beds and shale from the Santa Margarita Ranch in Paso Robles's most southern district show themselves magnificently in what I suspect is this wine's finest vintage yet. Deep, ripe spiced plum and tarry blackberry are mouth-gripping and teeth-coating. The wine—a blend of 80% Syrah, 18% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot—pos- sesses a dense chocolate-violet middle with a mineral thread dappled with black plum and soy sauce. 93 A to Z Wineworks 2015 The Essence of Oregon Pinot Noir, Oregon ($28) Thirty- five vineyards contributed to this blend that commemorates the winery's 15th anniversary. Floral notes abound: roses and tropical scents, perfumed berries, cinnamon and lanolin fill this ripe red up. Its earthy foundation is pleasant and mouth-filling. 89 Tolosa Winery 2013 Heritage Syrah, Edna Valley ($32) From this solar-powered winery comes a cool-climate Syrah that over-delivers in style, texture and flavor. With just a whisper of soy sauce, intoxicatingly perfumed candied plums and a sweet-savory note that violet imparts, the wash of satin on the palate creates a memorable mouthfeel. Tart rhubarb eeks out in mid-palate, elongated with milk chocolate, cinnamon sugar and red licorice. 94 Babylonstoren 2014 Nebukadnesar, WO Simonsberg-Paarl, South Africa ($42) A brilliant blend of all five Bordeaux varieties. The elegance begins immediately on the nose, with rich blackberry pipe tobacco and herbs. On the palate, white-peppered plums, espresso bean, violets and fruited cedar swoosh in a balanced array of finely grained tannins and great acidity. This is a stand-out. 93 CATAMARCA IMPORTS Broken Earth 2013 Merlot, Paso Robles ($48) Ripe, chewy cherry-cocoa tannins—dry and dusty mid-palate—with energetic red fruit and a pinch of nutmeg. Earthy toward the finish with root vegetables and dark chocolate soil. Delicious. 92 Kelly Family Vineyards 2013 Red Wine, Napa Valley ($48) From Napa's Oak Knoll District comes this plush wine, a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Merlot. While notes of pencil shavings and brooding savory chocolate notes exist, this is a feminine red, sending up flirty ripe, bright fruit, lilac and gracefully appointed notes of baking spices. It showcases the brilliance of Merlot from this district. 92 Renwood 2014 Special Reserve Grandpère Zinfandel, Amador County ($50) From one of Amador County's earliest harvests on record (beginning August 11) due to a mild winter and summer, with low yields and a fine natural acidity despite the drought conditions, this red performed exceptionally. A blend of 75% Zin, 20% Petite Sirah and 5% Barbera, the grapes—grown in elevations exceeding 1,600 feet—hail from 21-year-old vines; the wine was aged for 21 months in French oak. From its telling black- purple hue to its spiced plum, blackberry and clove juiciness, its elegance is apparent from first sip. White pepper, mocha and violets add to its complexity and keep delivering deliciousness. 94 Franciscan 2013 Magnificat Meritage, Napa Valley ($55) It's that time of year when we get to sample this all-star blend: 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, with additions of 2% Malbec and 1% Cab Franc. Chewy tannins express deep notes of cherrywood and espresso. This is a muscular body- builder vintage, aged 20 months in oak, packed with tobacco and iron and setting a mood of shadows and ripeness. 92 CONSTELLATION WINES U.S. Mercer Estates 2013 Robert Willis Reserve Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills ($55) Not surprising, one of the Washington vineyards supplying these exquisite "seasoned" Malbec grapes is named Spice Cabinet, which sits on a sun-exposed southeast-facing slope above the Columbia River. While '13 was the hottest vintage on record in the region, this red was impeccably balanced with an acidity that charmed the fruit out of the glass. Cherry, pomegranate and lush plum are centered within a deep meatiness with an abounding blue floral tone. Food-friendly with silky tannins. 94 Cherry Pie 2013 Huckleberry Snodgrass Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($60) A savory beauty! Red pepper, cinnamon, cherry and sarsaparilla earthiness make up just part of the energy this wine exudes. Tomato leaf, basil and a pinch of black pepper keep it finely tuned. 92 ONE TRUE VINE Seghesio Family Vineyard 2013 Barbera, Alexander Valley ($38) Proprietary Barbera clones were planted in Alexander Valley by Edoardo Seghesio in 1895. This outstanding red offers sensations on nose and palate. From the gorgeous scent of summer cherries and plum blossoms, a red licorice taste and sensation spreads and inspires the palate with a dab of white pepper. Seasoned and brushy with a soothing vanilla toast finish, this is a perfect barbera-cue wine. 94 CRIMSON WINE GROUP