Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/7240
58 / the tasting panel / march 2010 I n 1973, when Merry Edwards graduated at the top of her class in enology from U. C. Davis, wineries were not beating down the door to hire her. "I didn't have one interview," she says, while her less qualified male classmates were fielding of- fers. "There was not one woman professor then. A woman graduate was an anomaly." Boston-born Edwards finally landed a job at maverick winery Mt. Eden where she polished her craft for three years. After working for a number of winer- ies and being a consultant for a decade, Merry Edwards founded her own winery in 1997 in partnership with Bill Bourke, a former United Airlines pilot and inves- tor in a number of winery properties, including Ravenswood. The rest, as they say, is history. Merry Edwards Wines has become one of California's leading producers of hand-crafted Sonoma-grown Pinot Noir. In addition, Merry produces a celebrated Sauvignon Blanc, a variety she mastered while making the wines at Matan- zas Creek Winery. In 1998, Merry and her husband Ken Coo- persmith bought and planted a nine-and-a- half-acre Russian River Valley vineyard. The same year, she acquired a 24-acre vine- yard which she called the Meredith Estate Vineyard. Today, half of her wines are made from vineyard-designated fruit, 60 pecent of which is from vineyards she and her husband own. Last year, construction was completed on a new winery, located on the Coopersmith vineyard property, near Sebastopol. It is about time that the grande dame of So- noma Pinot—one of the most accomplished interpreters of this fickle variety—has a permanent home to work her magic. Merry Edwards is one of the world's best wine- makers—and she just happens to be a woman. Here are my tasting notes of some of her current releases: 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley ($30) Aromatic and lush with lovely citrus and peachy fruit; subtle and elegant with great depth and a long finish that shows minerals and charming floral notes. 91 points 2007 Pinot Noir, Cooper- smith Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($54) Rich and dense with black cherry and spice; made from fruit grown by Merry's husband Ken Coopersmith; excellent acid structure and a long, plump finish. 91 2007 Pinot Noir, Flax Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($54) Fragrant and smooth with ripe cherry and plum fruit with a core of firm acidity; elegant and showing flesh and depth; long and beautifully balanced. 92 2007 Pinot Noir, Meredith Estate, Russian River Valley ($54) Opulent and juicy with vibrant black cherry; this fruit comes from Merry's personal vineyard and shows what she can do when she controls the process from soil to bottle; lovely fruit and firm acid structure; long and complex. 94 2007 Pinot Noir, Tobias Glen Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($54) Smooth and harmonious with ripe red cherry and racy acidity; fleshy with balance and excellent length. 91 2007 Pinot Noir, Klopp Ranch, Russian River Valley ($57) Lovely tension between aromatic, ripe fruit and zesty acidity; velvety texture and balance; long and lush. 92 The Grande Dame of Sonoma Pinot RUssian RivER vaLLEy DoyEnnE MERRy EDWaRDS hElPED PuT CalIfoRnIa'S WoMEn WInEMakERS on ThE MaP Merry Edwards among her beloved Sonoma Pinot vines. by Anthony Dias Blue PHOTO COURTESY OF MERRY EDWARDS WINERY