Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/687399
16 / the tasting panel / june 2016 THE MESSAGE 16 / the tasting panel / june 2016 A lthough seemingly frozen in a film noir San Francisco time warp, Charlie Palmer's Burritt Room + Tavern at 417 Stockton Street—near the alley where Sam Spade's partner Miles Archer was gunned down in Dashiell Hammett's The Maltese Falcon—paradoxically is a virtual showcase of the latest trends in mixology. Anyone interested in where the cocktail craze is heading should make this landmark— discretely located in classic speakeasy style up a narrow stairway in the lobby of the Mystic Hotel—one of their first stops when visiting Baghdad by the Bay. There they will find head bar- tender Josh Trabulsi has implemented a number of dramatic changes to his pours since we visited him two years ago. "True to Charlie Palmer's philosophy, we're always moving forward, changing with the times," Trabulsi says. "Guests are asking for drier flavors and more savory items. Things like umami, and vegetal influences like bell pepper. So we're creating cocktails using acidic ingredients with more culinary flavors, reflective of what comes out of our kitchen—things like aged balsamic vinegar and brine. We use a broth made by Chef Lucas Knox for our Golden Child cocktail; without the broth, you basically have a mint Gin Sour, but adding a half ounce of broth gives it a white wine brininess. " In addition, Trabulsi has implemented a bottled cocktail program, featuring porcelain-capped bottles that contain the equivalent of three to four cocktails, so customers can pour for themselves or each other without waiting for a second round. Needless to say, this also frees up the waitstaff to serve others. "Besides our classics, we have also divided our cocktail menu into three cat- egories," says Trabulsi, noting the citrus, savory and spirituous selections. "We all have our favorite cocktails but what I'm seeing now is an exploratory trend on the part of the customers. They are enticed by the menu and want variety in the world of adventurous drinking. Ten years ago, it was the one drink, one brand customer. Now all that has changed." —Richard Carleton Hacker PHOTO: RICHARD CARLETON HACKER From Speakeasy to Savory