Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/637107
profitable, and providing that clonal mate- rial to wineries all over the state." Sommelier and educator Chris Sawyer agrees. "Their benchmark is really Chardonnay, and especially the clones they [developed through field selection] and really made them into what the style of California [Chardonnay] is based around," he says. "That's a really important thing because there are so many different varia - tions of the Wente clone now that are used by such amazing winemakers—the respect for the Wentes and the clone goes so deep." About 80% of California Chardonnays trace back to the Wente clone, which second-generation Ernest Wente imported from Montpellier, France, in 1912 and obtained from Charles Wetmore and the Gier family in the Livermore Valley. And though that would be enough for any winery to rest its laurels upon, the current generations of the family decline to do so. "I was a history major, so I love history," says Carolyn, who, along with her brothers, Eric and Philip, is the Fourth Generation in the winery. "And [while] I think it's impor - tant to reflect on your past and to under- stand what you've learned . . . it's so much more important to look forward to what you can do next." Carolyn cites other heritage wine families such as the Antinoris in Tuscany and the Hugels in Alsace, 26 and 13 generations respectively, as her role models for their sustainability, contributions and vision. "We aspire to that," she says. "Our vision is to be one of the most well-respected family wineries in the world, and it's about how you measure yourself going forward and how you get that next generation to think about what they're going to do to continue and contribute." Taking Care of the Land In the fifth generation it is Christine and Karl Wente who are moving the brand in new directions. After helping lead the wine country lifestyle extensions, Christine turned her attention to The Wente Foundation for Arts Education and mem - bership on several local industry boards. For winemaker Karl Wente, the journey is a loop that doesn't coil back on itself but drives forward with references to the past and a commitment to keep on truck - ing. "It's a continual evolution and drive to be the best farmers we can be," he says. "It's a continuation of having wines that are emblematic of a sense of place and the ter- roir we have in the Livermore Valley and Ar royo Seco, and taking that fruit and creat- ing a style of wine that is ultimately yummy." Karl echoes his Aunt Carolyn in saying the family shares a value system that stems from pride of place. "We were all raised on the same land . . . we all rode on my great- grandfather's saddle on the same exact piece of property and it really instilled a sense of taking care of the land," he says. "We have good values and the ability to communicate and work through things," he continued, "That fact that we are a 100% family-owned and -operated business and we all get along and like each other is our number-one accomplishment." That point is not lost on others in the industry. "With a shout out to the Concannons who founded their winery in Livermore the same year, I think it's pretty easy to argue that Wente is the first family of American wine," Swan says, noting that the Concannon family, while still involved, no longer own the winery. Concludes Swan: "They're not the largest or the best known, but they are the first family of wine." Fifth Generation Winemaker Karl Wente in the family's Riva Ranch vineyard in the Arroyo Seco AVA. (right) Karl Wente notes the family's "continual evolution and drive to be the best farmers we can be." 1883 1918 1912 1933 1936 1934 Founder Carl H. Wente purchases 47 acres of vineyard land in the Livermore Valley and builds a winery. Sons Ernest A. and Herman L. Wente continue winery operations and form Wente Bros. 1918–1933 Second Generation Ernest Wente imports Chardonnay from the nursery in Montpellier. He begins experiments with this varietal, which would later result in the introduction of the Wente clone. First in California winery to release varietally labeled wines with Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. First in California winery to release varietally labeled Chardonnay. Herman Wente helps found the Wine Institute to create standards and a post- Prohibition roadmap to professional winemaking. Survives Prohibition by selling altar wines. 94 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } FEBRUARY/MARCH 2016