The SOMM Journal

February / March 2016

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  75 OUTSIDE, THE PALM TREES SWAYED TO A GENTLE, sunny San Diego breeze in the sweeping windows of the Hillcrest banquet room within the Manchester Grand Hyatt hotel. Inside, our immensely respected moderator, Eric Hemer (Master Sommelier, Master of Wine, Certified Wine Educator, Senior Vice-President, Director of Wine Education for SWS of America) scanned the jam-packed crowd of buzzing wine professionals at the very first SommCon. A small smirk inched across Hemer's face. "Raise your hand if there is anybody who is a non-believer in terroir." His question silenced the room. A few had the courage to single themselves out, but I'm certain there were more non- believers who were simply intimidated by public declaration. I can't say I blamed them. The concept of terroir has been a hot topic of debate lately in the world of wine. Not to mention that they were attending a SOMM Journal brainchild titled "Digging In: Unique Terroir & Its Effect on Wine Styles." Likely though, most of us in attendance for this panel wanted to maintain the wonderfully romantic but scientifically debat - able notion that a wine can reflect a sense of place. It's been revered almost as long as humans have loved wine. Originally a French concept, now applied around the world, the Oxford Companion to Wine defines terroir as, "The total natural environment of any viticultural site." Hemer expanded upon this definition with mention of site specifics, such as climate, geomorphology and soil, and how all this in combination with grape variety can express a unique signature. The more recent school of thought insists that it's bacteria, not soil, that effects the taste of wine/wine style, while many would also add that climate is the biggest contributor. But, regardless of how you define terroir's "natural environment," and where the emphasis is placed in this multifaceted definition, I believe what Hemer and the panelists were trying to convey—and where I think the definition of terroir needs some adjust - ing—was his follow up question: "Isn't there more to it than the natural environment?" This time one of the experts responds— Brian Cronin, another well respected MS who is the National Education Manager for Palm Bay International. "I believe environment in terroir would also include people and even objects." Cronin was there representing Sicily. Definition aside, for Cronin, "Terroir's biggest role in wine is what it does textur - ally. For instance, the volcanic soil of Etna in Sicily gives this middle texture to the wine. This is where the structure in wine changes from the soil. The only other place I can com - The SOMM Journal partnered with SommCon, a national conference and exposition for somme- lier-level education and training of wine profes- sionals and serious enthusiasts, for its debut in S an Diego in November. The annual conference brings together industry professionals of all levels to discuss, develop and lead the conversa - tion on the business of wine. What follows are our reports on just two of the many events that constituted SommCon 2015, including in-depth MS- and MW-led sessions, speed dating–style blind tastings, round-table discussions, regional explorations, trade tasting and expo and a Grand Tasting. For complete information on SommCon 2016, go to www.sommconusa.com. Examining terroir (from left to right): Aaron Ridgeway, National Sales Manager for Negociants USA; Eric Hemer, MS, Director of Wine Education for SWS; Brian Cronin, MS, Education Manager for Palm Bay International; Daniel J. Daou, winemaker and co-proprietor of DAOU Vineyards and Winery; Christopher Canale-Parola, Export Manager of Gonzalez Byass; Christopher Patrick Lavine, AS, Certified Wine Educator and Regional Manager for Broadbent Selections.

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