Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/637107
84 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } FEBRUARY/MARCH 2016 between Arroyo Seco and Santa Lucia Highlands, Hammond told us: "Jess started buying up vineyard properties in Monterey in 1990 specifically because he thought he could get more flavor intensity and ideal balance of acid and phenolics in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grown here." The 420-acre Panorama Vineyard, located just west of Zabala's and Blair's holdings, also sits in the narrowest section of Salinas Valley, where wind speed is heightened by a funneling effect. "Wind, of course, is the big factor here," said Hammond. "By 1:30 each afternoon when winds pick up to 15, 20 miles per hour, leaf stomata close up and vines start to shut down, which effects hang time significantly. It also thickens skins and impacts berry size. We began replanting Panorama Vineyard in 2006 on four-by- three-foot spacing—the tighter spacing has an even greater effect on berry and cluster size." With that, we sat down at a table between the vine rows with Kris Kato, the winemaker of Carmel Road, a brand focusing strictly on Jackson Family Wines' Monterey plantings. We tasted four bottlings of Carmel Road 2013 Panorama Vineyard Pinot Noir. Explained Kato, "These four wines reflect slightly different exposures and soil types—a finer sandy loam on the upper slopes, and deeper Chualar sandy loam on the lower slopes." Some notes: South Crest—Highest point of ranch with southeast exposure, more protected from the wind; medium-red color, flowery, fragrant red fruit and round, easy mouthfeel. North Crest—North facing slope directly facing the wind; darker, purplish red color, mix of red and black fruit aromas; fleshy phenolic feel, braced by more tannin. First Row—Lower, southeast-facing slope; floral, fragrant, and round like the South Crest; but even softer in tannin and more fruit-forward. Panorama Vine—Field-picked blend of entire vineyard, combin - ing qualities of each block; ripe, lush, flowery, faintly earthy; outwardly round, with dense, savory middle. { somm camp } Bottles of Carmel Road Pinot Noir in situ at Panorama Vineyard. Camper Scott Reesman among ultra-closely spaced Pinot Noir vines at Panorama Vineyard. Lunch with Scott Family Estate wines. At Mission Ranch Vineyard, grower Mark Chesebro explains Smart-Dyson trellising of Pinot Noir. EDGY WINES AT SOLEDAD MISSION RANCH