Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/637107
82 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } FEBRUARY/MARCH 2016 Immediately west of Blair Estate, rattling in that same wind-scrubbed "cone," is Zabala Vineyards: just over 1,000 acres of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Syrah cultivated by Louis Zabala. Zabala is a serious grower with a reputation for meticulousness. He is not a winery owner, but his family has farmed or ranched in the Central Coast since 1793. Although less than half-a-mile from the high-desert/fine sandy loam terroir found in Blair Estate, the Zabala plantings sit on the west side of the Arroyo Seco River in fine to coarse sandstone bereft of organic material, and in some parts, growing in piles of seemingly all the big, round, white river rocks—visually reminiscent of Southern Rhône galets—in the world. "It's a good thing the grape industry came to Salinas Valley," explained Zabala. "A lot of this property was never good for row cropping, but it's perfect for wine grapes. Vines struggle a lot here, but winemakers prefer that. We planted a lot of Chardonnay because here you get exceptional acidity and flavor intensity. This is as 'Arroyo Seco' as it gets, since a lot of our vines are planted pretty much in dry riverbed." In Zabala's "Macho Block," so-called because of its ankle-breaking cobblestone terrain, Mercy Vineyards winemaker/ partner Mike Kohne and co-owner Mark Dirickson poured us their Mercy 2014 Zabala Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc; flush with melon and tropical fruit peppered with spice and titillatingly tart, racy sensa - tions. The Mercy 2014 Zabala Vineyard Chardonnay was equally upbeat, its flowery tropical fruit qualities silky and pin - pointed with bright acidity, under a sheer, lacy oak veneer (33% new French oak fermented and aged). "It's difficult to over- oak Zabala Chardonnay," said Kohne—"the fruit's natural, deep intensity always keeps it in balance." The Mercy 2012 Zabala Vineyard Pinot Noir was also classically "Arroyo Seco": rose petal, strawberry/cherry fruit, peppery spice and earthy sensations rolled into a round, fluid, Beaune-like medium bodied structure. The Mercy 2012 Zabala Vineyard Syrah was even more surpris - ing: floral/violet notes tinged with mocha spice and distinctively lavender notes, filling a meaty, medium-full body with an almost caper-like zing. After experiencing these reference points among the vines, J.M. "Woody" Van Horn, who heads up Bracero Cocina in San Diego, commented: "We found consistency in Arroyo Seco, and real potential for some cool 'rogue' wines, made by winemakers who dare to be different." Jerry Garbus of Southern California's Manhattan Beach Post recollects the "ripping acidity," "subtle viscosity" and a "clear fingerprint of sage - brush, or oil of sage leaf, character—if not a gentle or pungent herbaceousness, sometimes laced with peppercorns—that we would later confirm in our blind tasting of Pinot Noirs." { somm camp } ANKLE-BUSTING GALETS IN ZABALA VINEYARDS Ninth-generation Monterey grower Leslie Zabala in Zabala Vineyards' Macho Block Chardonnay vines. The galet stones are reminiscent of the Southern Rhône. Mercy Vineyards' Mike Kohne pouring Mercy Zabala (dry) Riesling. Mercy Vineyard Pinot Noir from Zabala Vineyard.