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BLUE REVIEWS 93 Torres 2009 Salmos, Priorat, Spain ($38) Lush and generous with lovely raspberry and toasted oak; juicy, ripe fruit with spice, balance and complexity; supple, graceful and charming. A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan. DREYFUS, ASHBY INC. VALUE AND BY-THE-GLASS RECOMMENDATIONS 89 90 Domaine du Tariquet 2010 VDP des Côtes de Gascogne Blanc, France ($10) Smooth and minerally with clean, racy acidity and lovely pear and citrus fruit; tangy with fresh, bright flavors and good length; 75% Chenin Blanc, 25% Chardonnay. ROBERT KACHER SELECTIONS Concannon 2010 Pinot Grigio, Selected Vineyards, Central Coast ($10) Smooth and fresh with notes of citrus, melon and peach with minerals and form acidity; a complex, balanced and delightful wine at a great price. THE WINE GROUP 89 Viña Chocalán 2009 Carmenère Selección, Maipo Valley, Chile ($11) Silky and rich with lush plum and blackberry fruit; juicy, bright and showing considerable depth and finesse. DOMAINE SELECT WINE ESTATES 88 88 Symington 2009 Altano, Douro, Portugal ($9) A bright and juicy Douro table wine with crisp plum, raspberry and spice; fresh, clean and racy with balance and lots of charm. VINEYARD BRANDS Lua Nova 2008 Em Vinhas Velhas, Douro, Portugal ($14) Smooth and ripe with dense, meaty, rich and earthy flavors of plum, blackberry and cassis; long and balanced with depth and heft. MARQUEE SELECTIONS 40 / the tasting panel / march 2012 88 Under the Radar, Royally Lanson Is a Connoisseur's Champagne LANSON DOESN'T COME TO MIND AS QUICKLY as many other, better-known houses when champagne is the topic—unless, perhaps, you're a member of the British royal family. Lanson, which has been sold in London since the early 19th century, was granted a royal warrant by Queen Victoria in 1900 and still provides champagne to Queen Elizabeth II and her court. It has also been the official supplier of bubbly to the monarchs of Spain and Norway and still supplies the royal household of Monaco. The royal pedigree is not surprising for a house that was founded in 1760 by François Delamotte (the Lanson name was adopted in 1837, when Jean-Baptiste Lanson assumed control of the company). Lanson is now part of Lanson-BCC, the second biggest champagne group worldwide. The Lanson house style, defined by avoidance of malolactic fermentation, is known for freshness, fruit, power and longevity. This is a champagne that appeals to connoisseurs more than clubsters. The Lanson portfolio was redesigned in 2008 with a new look that uses a striking red interpretation of the Maltese cross as its logo—a reference to the founder's youngest son, Nicolas-Louis Delamotte, a Knight of the Order of Malta, who originally adopted the symbol as the company's crest. I recently sat down with Paul Beavis, Managing Director of Lanson U.K., and Justin Kleineider, Lanson's Southern California–based Western Regional Manager, to taste some current releases. 91 Lanson NV Black Label Brut Champagne, France ($40) Fresh and juicy with lively acidity and tangy citrus; elegant, charming and pure with a long, focused finish. 90 Lanson NV Ivory Label Demi-Sec Champagne, France ($40) Smooth, creamy and sweet with good acid structure and a long, lush finish; balanced, fresh and stylish. 93 Lanson NV Rose Label Brut Rosé Champagne, France ($50) Soft and lush with lovely balance and smooth, seductive berry fruit; elegant and seamless; long and charming on the finish. 95 Lanson MV Extra-Age Champagne, France ($100) A new multi-vintage cuvee. Stunning and elegant with a delicate mousse, nuanced fruit, maturity and great depth; an exceptional champagne that is forward and mouth-filling yet refined and precise. LANSON IS IMPORTED BY LANSON INTERNATIONAL AMERICAS. Château Vallon des Brumes 2009 Vinum Natura Bordeaux, France ($9) Smooth and ripe with lush plum, racy acidity and tangy raspberry; fresh, long and lively. Organic. WINE BROKERS INTERNATIONAL 88 Foppiano Vineyards 2009 Lot 96 Petite Sirah, Sonoma County ($13) Clean and dense with dark color and juicy black raspberry and cherry; smooth, hearty and deep with a long, rich finish.