Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/41419
APPELLATIONS This Grenache Rosé is just one of the Rhône-style offerings at Miramonte. be the first year we're fully at peace with what's in our vineyards." Though not among the newest wineries in Temecula (here since '99), Miramonte clearly represents the leading edge, with one of the Valley's more esteemed winemakers in Reinhard Schlassa. As the outspoken Vanderhoof has said previously, "We believe Temecula is where Napa was 30 years ago." Their 15 acres of grapes produce the bulk of 4500 cases/year, focusing on Rhône and Bordeaux blends. If you visit the tasting room—open late—pay your respects to Mira, the big black namesake Newfoundland. Yet, as Jon McPherson, Master Winemaker of South Coast Winery, admits "I can't compare to Napa Cabernet or Central Coast Pinot. For this valley to set itself apart . . . what do I do?" Whether you run the biggest winery in the valley, as McPherson does, or the smallest, you ask the land. Temecula's sandy loam/decomposed granite soil, hot sunny days cooled by ocean breezes and mild winters invite comparisons to Spain, Portugal and Italy, and it's in growing these countries' varietals—along with some impressive white white Rhône–like Viogniers—that Temecula may best have a fighting chance at greater respectability. Quarter Century Mark Take for example Baily Vineyard & Winery's recent decision to put the name Sangiovese on the label of that wine, previously called "T.V. Red." A former retirement actuary, Phil Baily has been growing grapes and making his own wine here since the mid-'80s, celebrating his 25th vintage this year. "There's a feeling here that Napa owns Cabernet, we have to find something else," he says, though Baily is sticking to his guns, swearing by the own-root vines plantings possible in this climate: "The vines are more balanced." He makes 12 wines grown on his 25 acres. While there's nary a fear of phyl- 84 / the tasting panel / september 201 1 loxera here (nor frost), in the late 1990s, Temecula was hit with Pierce's disease, spread by glassy-winged sharpshoot- ers, destroying a huge percentage of vines. That progressively encouraged many over the last decade to rethink their plantings (even if it squashed most attempts at organic growing). "Having worked in warmer areas," says Thornton winemaker David Vergari, "I know which grapes work in this climate, and people are starting to grow those." Vergari, a Sonoma native who's made wine in Spain and Australia (and elsewhere), represents a new dedication to quality for Thornton, one of the oldest wineries still run by the original family in its 23rd vintage. Previously best known for sparkling wines and still fully vested in the tourist trade (with an impressive concert season and excellent restaurant), President Steve Thornton nevertheless seems entirely deferential to Vergari, whose current releases (among 15,000 cases, mostly French varietals) include a Barbera, Muscat Canelli, Nebbiolo, Tempranillo, even—get this—a single- vineyard Zinfandel. Napa 30 Years Ago "We're in transition," admits Miramonte owner/vintner Cane Vanderhoof, who's not just talking about the major construction around his winery at the moment. "This will Former alternative rock musician Nick Palumbo arrived in Temecula a year prior to Vanderhoof, but maintains even more of an edge at his Palumbo Family Vineyards and Winery, even turning away bus tours and less serious visitors. Random trinkets like bongos and a gumball machine litter the barrel room, while a vintage Hudson Jet Liner rots away next to the grape rows. But there's nothing eccentric about the quality of Palumbo's wines (2,500 cases from his 13 acres), including one of the Valley's many strong Viogniers, a Sangiovese Rosé, Cabernet Franc and Syrah blends. "I think there are Viognier, increasingly strong in Temecula, is one of the offerings at Palumbo. Leonesse has one of Temecula Valley's largest case offerings.