Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/41419
Thornton winemaker David Vergari knows Temecula's climate and terroir. A sk many California wine connoisseurs to name a favorite bottle from Temecula, and you're likely to draw blank stares. There are several theories to explain this, but judging by THE TASTING PANEL's recent visit to several valley wineries, quality should be the last of them. Many noteworthy and intrigu- ing wines can be found in Temecula. And the best point to a regional identity unique to any other. Temecula Valley, in many respects, could be considered a victim of its own success. The relatively young region (the oldest wineries date to the late 1960s) with relatively small production (barring one exception, the biggest houses barely reach 30,000 cases) has grown so popular in the last ten years with visitors (San Diego, Orange County and Los Angeles are all less than two hours away), that a vast majority of sales happen right on premises. Perhaps no more than three wineries out of 30 have any presence more than 200 miles away. Many, in fact, have no distribution deals whatsoever. A local signpost points the way to some of Temecula's visitor- friendly wineries. Setting the Valley Apart In the Field of Dreams business model ("If you build it, they will come"), that is about as perfect as it gets. Even in this challenging economy, most of the wineries huddled around or near Rancho California Road appear to be thriving, even expanding operations (wedding receptions and concerts are popular). But there is a downside. As other emerging wine regions like New York's Finger Lakes and Ontario's Niagara Escarpment (not to mention another film, Sideways) illustrate, winery visitors on a whole tend to favor popular varietals and populist winemaking. Thus most of the nine wineries visited for this story offer a wide catalog of bottlings (some numbering several dozen!) from their own vineyards, and almost always including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, Riesling, a sweet rosé and, when possible, sparkling. Vintner Phil Baily is an enthusiast for Bordeaux-style blends. september 201 1 / the tasting panel / 83