Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/391612
74 / the tasting panel / october 2014 granted the region AVA status. Today, Hahn is among the largest family land holders in Santa Lucia Highlands, with more than 650 acres of vineyards, or roughly 10% of SLH's 6,100 acres currently under vine. The decades of winemaking experience in Santa Lucia Highlands informs how Hahn crafts its luxury wines. Tucked neatly in the Hahn Estate is Smith Vineyard—originally planted in 1974 and one of the first recognized vineyards of the Santa Lucia Highlands. It is here that I meet Director of Winemaking Paul Clifton, a local of the Monterey Bay area and multigenerational vintner who has forged a career in boutique, cool- weather wine production. Crunching the ancient alluvial soils, he remarks on the exceptional qualities offered from the Santa Lucia Highlands: "We have one of the longest growing seasons in California; the grapes planted here ripen almost two months slower from the wind and fog off the bay, resulting in deep, complex fruit with great color and beautiful skins. An industry 'trick' is to add Grenache or Syrah to Pinot Noir to provide deeper color or flavor. SLH Pinot Noir is so robust, we could add ours to Cabernet to give it a kick!" "And the soil is so well drained—I mean, just look at it!" He grabs a crumby handful of the sandy loam, another key attribute to growing exceptional Pinot Noir. Paul's passion for the land and the people at Hahn is palpable. "I feel fortunate because at Hahn, it's about people, and you can't get good wine without good people," he notes with a smile. The sentiment of happy people at Hahn is embodied in its charismatic president, Tony Baldini, who joined in 2011 after years managing marque luxury brands for Constellation, Jackson Family Wines and Don Sebastiani & Sons. "I fell in love with Hahn when I saw the vineyards, tasted the wines and met the people. I felt like I had just discovered a new national park, one built for wine. It's also an opportunity to build upon the legacy of Nicky Hahn. Thirty-five years ago, he made a commitment to the region. Ten years ago, he made a commitment to producing world class Pinot Noir. Today, we're delivering on that commit- ment by putting Santa Lucia Highlands luxury wines on retailer shelves and wine lists across the county." As proud flag bearers for the Santa Lucia Highlands—like Nicky Hahn before them—Paul and his team are constantly looking to epitomize their appellation with exquisite, estate- sourced grapes that represent the passion and commitment of Hahn Family Wines. "The Hahn SLH wines encompass what I believe is the soul not only of the soil and climate, but also of the Hahn team," Paul remarks. After an ATV cruise through the Smith and Hook vineyards, Hahn's on-site hospitality team, lead by Chef Dyon Foster, presented a picnic tasting overlooking Smith Vineyard and the winery estate—the very location where Nicky Hahn had his "eureka" moment over three decades ago. Hahn Director of Winemaking Paul Clifton. Executive Chef Dyon Foster. Hahn Family Wines President Tony Baldini.