Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/39104
plant more of the premium vines he’d brought from Europe. Boisset intends to restore the Vinicultural Society name at Buena Vista to celebrate the winery’s heritage in Cabernet, Zinfandel and other premium varietals from Sonoma. But the story did not move smoothly forward. An outbreak of phylloxera in 1867 wiped out Buena Vista’s vines and Haraszthy sold the property. He travel- ing to Nicaragua to pursue an interest in rum production, where he met an untimely death in a jungle river—alliga- tors were reportedly at fault. That’s where the second great protagonist in Buena Vista’s story arrived. Frank Bartholomew was a war correspondent (and eventual President of the United Press International) with a taste for the finer things in life. He was overseas covering World War II when he saw the ad for Buena Vista and decided to purchase the property sight-unseen. For 20 years, Frank and his wife, Antonia, lovingly and suc- cessfully pushed the enter- prise forward, enduring the ups and downs of vineyard life. They finally decided to sell Buena Vista in 1968 but retained land nearby where they retired. Jean-Charles Boisset seems eager to become a steward of California history, but it’s clear he will not be a somber guardian. He envisions lively parties and grand events, not just picnickers sitting at the old wooden benches on the winery’s drive. “We want to dance again,” he says. Who did Bartholomew sell to? None other than the Underwood family—specifi- cally, Chris’s grandfather, who at the time was at the helm of Young’s Market. Under his watch, the winery signifi- cantly expanded its vineyard holdings and built a family tradition as leading Sonoma winemakers with distribution throughout California and the U.S. Now, more than 40 years later, Chris Underwood is back at Buena Vista, talking with Boisset as the new owner enthusi- astically shares his vision of the future. “It’s phenomenal to see Buena Vista again as a family winery and to have it be distributed by the Young’s Market family,” Underwood says. “We eagerly look forward to rebuilding its tradition and distri- bution in California.” With a long his- tory as a pioneer of Sonoma viticulture, Buena Vista is a spe- cialist in the Carneros viticultural region, which is characterized by its shallow, dense soil, cool summers and mild winters. The climate conditions in Los Carneros brought a concentration on wines that do well there—most outstand- ing are Burgundian varietals Chardonnay and Pinot Noir—but it also sees some lovely Syrah and Merlot. When asked about his plans for Buena Vista Boisset gets visibly excited. “The terroir is what is making all this possible,” Boisset says. His emphasis will be making wines that excel in Sonoma and the well-respected Carneros vineyards that Buena Vista is known for. “Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel were first grown here in Sonoma by Haraszthy,” Boisset notes, “We want to reignite that tradition and are excited to unveil the dynamic new Vinicultural Society tier.” It’s likely that other varieties will be explored, too. Sparkling wine seems like a natural; Buena Vista was producing sparkling wine as early as 1860, and there is tremendous nostalgia for the cream sherry that once was a very popular Buena Vista product. But more than that, Boisset would like to see the winery spring back to life. A sense of history hangs heavy in the air at Buena Vista, but perhaps too heavily. “We want to be smelling wine, not dust,” Boisset says. “We want to make people who love wine say, ‘This is the place you have to visit and learn about the history of California and winemaking in the United States from the very begin- ning!’” And to that effect, Boisset plans to explore ways to bring new life and new visitor experiences to the historical property and the original first wine caves of California. Boisset seems eager to become a steward of California history, but it’s clear he will not be a somber guardian. He envisions lively events and grand celebrations, not just picnickers sitting at the old wooden benches on the winery’s drive. “We want to dance and dream again,” he says. august 201 1 / the tasting panel / 43