The Tasting Panel magazine

AUGUST 2011

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A LONE STAR LIFE Stars of Texas: Volume 1 A ROUNDUP OF WINES FROM THE HIGH PLAINS by Anthony Head / photo by Kirk Weddle T he Texas High Plains AVA is a blob on the map that surrounds Lubbock and stretches west until it hits the New Mexico state line. At ground level, it’s not what most people would call an “attractive” landscape (pretty flat and dusty), but it’s a sweet spot for growing grapes, and wineries the state over source fruit from Newsom, Reddy, Bingham and other High Plains vineyards. Although many of the following wineries produce the standard American favorites (Cab, Chard, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc—and a lot of sweet wines, which are traditionally popular in Texas), they also craft complex and unique wines that will help define Lone Star winemaking in the coming years. These bottles are made from some of the best varieties for the soil and the climate, and they’re the best of what I’ve tasted from the Texas High Plains so far. duchman 2009 dolcetto, Texas ($14) The important Italian varietal Dolcetto has found a very comfortable home in Texas. Duchman’s youthful, medium-bodied red is ready to drink right now. The raspberry and earth character builds steadily in the glass . . . always growing with very little tannic resistance. WWW.DUCHMANFAMILYWINERY.COM McPherson Cellars 2010 Reserve Roussanne, Texas ($18) Dry and not too light, this shines with citrus and green tea notes. It lingers on the finish without making a cloying nuisance of itself. Unlike other winemakers who might be tempted to oak Roussanne and mask its natural characteris- tics, McPherson chose stainless steel, thank goodness. WWW.MCPHERSONCELLARS.COM Bending Branch nv Tannat, Texas ($24) There isn’t much domestic Tannat being produced, which is a shame consider- ing how utilitarian this red can be. BB’s smooth, almost seamless non-vintage blend is rich with black cherry and earthy flavors. This medium- to full-bodied version of the obscure French grape is soft, and the longer it sits, the closer it inches towards savory. Perfect for sipping on its own and serving with feasts. WWW.BENDINGBRANCHWINERY.COM 82 / the tasting panel / august 201 1 llano estacado 2009 Cellar Reserve Tempranillo, Texas High Plains ($20) Tempranillo is undoubtedly the star grape for the High Plains. (It shows up three times on this list.) In Llano’s spectacular ‘09, the traditional Spanish grape demonstrates lushness and firmness with signature notes of plum, red cherry and light tobacco. I value this one far beyond its asking price. WWW.LLANOWINE.COM landon Winery 2009 Reserve Tempranillo, Texas ($25) Landon demonstrates how to successfully tease broad and appealing plum, cherry, and ripe strawberry flavors from Texas Temp. This medium-bodied wine finishes with full- bodied tobacco and leather satisfaction. WWW.LANDONWINERY.COM Solaro estate 2010 Arancia, Texas High Plains ($33) This dry Orange Muscat—which is precisely what has been lacking from the summer white wine landscape for as far back as I can remember—is sophisticated and firm, yet with a lifted tropical fruit bouquet. The clean finish is intense with orange rind. WWW.SOLAROESTATE.COM inwood estates 2008 Tempranillo, Texas ($40) There’s no beating around the bush: Buy this, but cellar it until long past the next rapture scare. Right now, it’s stiff and aggressive, even an hour after decanting. Despite that, the rich dark cherry, plum, and tobacco leaf flavors are already blossom- ing. (But don’t do it.) WWW.INWOODWINES.COM

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