The Tasting Panel magazine

January 2011

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BENT ON MIXOLOGY The Order of Chartreuse received an ancient manuscript for “An Elixir of Long Life.” The manuscript’s recipe was so com- plex that only bits and pieces of it were understood and used, but finally, the monastery’s apothecary was able to unravel its secret. The monks soon realized that due to its delicious character, the elixir was often used as a beverage rather than a medicine. In 1764 they adapted their recipe to make a milder beverage which we know today as Green Chartreuse liqueur. This “liqueur of health” uses 130 Alpine herbs, orange peel, hyssop and peppermint suspended in wine alcohol. Every herb and botanical was chosen for a specific purpose in promoting health. Hyssop, for example has antiseptic, anti-rheumatic and digestive properties, just to name a few. Today Chartreuse is known and loved throughout the mixol- ogy world, and a beautiful modifier that adds complexity and depth. In some circles, it is the go-to shot of choice, but I warn you, not for the faint of heart— with its 110 proof, you will feel more “lively” almost instantly. The Last Word ¾ oz. Beefeater gin ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ¾ oz. Green Chartreuse ¾ oz. Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur ¾ oz. fresh lime juice Add lime and all liquors to a mixing glass with ice. Shake and strain into a coupe glass. No garnish necessary. Bonal Gentiane-Quina aperitif wine is another spirit with a rich history rooted in medicinal purpose. Since 1865, this aperitif, known as ouvre l’appétit, was the key to “opening” the appetite. One of its key ingredients is gentian, the root of which has been used in Chinese medicine for more than 5,000 years, primarily for treatment of fevers and intestinal and liver disorders. Gentian is one of the world’s strongest bitters and is used in the production of alcoholic bitters and vermouth. It is traditionally used to stimulate the appetite and improve digestion. Both the Chinese and Korean word for gentian translates as “dragon’s gallbladder herb” due to its ability to treat inflammations of the gall bladder. The base for Bonal is mistelle (brandy-fortified grape juice), which paired with the herbs and botanicals gives juicy flavor up front, with a bitter, dry finish that keeps the palate wanting. More recently, distillers are finding new and exciting ways to keep the tradition of “healthful” imbibing going. Pulling inspiration from the great amaros of Italy, hum Botanical Spirit infuses organic rum with Fair Trade hibiscus, organic ginger, green cardamom and kaffir lime. The hibiscus is packed with vitamin C and anti-oxidants. VeeV Açai Spirit is another nouveau innovation, getting its healthful contribution from the ever-popular Brazilian açai berry. More than a trend, açai carries its weight with 57% more anti-oxidants than pomegranates or blueberries, and 30 times more heart-healthy anthocyanins than red wine. VeeV also fuses açai with prickly pear and acerola cherry, which is thought to have more vitamin C than any fruit on the planet. Aside from being packed with anti-oxidants, this spirit is remarkably pleasant and mixable, with hints of subtle dark cherry. A Pallative Toddy ■ ■ ■ ■ Squeeze a wedge of lemon into an Irish coffee glass. Add 1½ oz. VeeV Açai Spirit Fill with hot water and add honey to taste. Garnish with a sense that everything in the world is going to be just fine. With the passing of the 2010 holiday season and our New Year’s resolutions looming above us, we can take comfort in the fact that we won’t have to stop “toasting” in moderation, but can appreciate the time-honored traditions of some of the “elixirs of long life.” The Power of the Palate-Cleansing Cocktail D ave Power, barkeep at Town res- taurant in Kaimuki, Hawaii employs these “healthful” spirits at his establish- ment on a regular basis. As a member of the council for the USBG Hawaii, Dave has quickly established himself as one of the go-to bartenders for a handcrafted cocktail. His preference being more towards classic cocktails, he also works to create food friendly libations. The philosophy at Town is “local first, organic whenever possible.” Dave’s mantra for the bar follows suit with mixed drinks like his Kina Cocktail. The first chance he had to make some- thing with Bonal for a cocktail pairing menu happened to coincide within a day or two of Hawaii receiving Guinness Foreign Export, and a simple, straight- forward beer-cocktail was born. The sweet beginnings of the Bonal balance the bitter, stoutish start of the Foreign Export, and the lingering bitter flavors of both products work well together as a food-friendly palate cleanser. The chefs at Town paired the simple cocktail with a hamakua mushroom ragu served over stone-ground organic polenta. ■ ■ ■ ■ KINA BEER COCKTAIL 1½ oz. Bonal-Gentiane 3 oz. soda 1½ oz. Guinness Foreign Export Build in a Collins glass over ice. Garnish, on the side, with a bowl of polenta and mushroom ragu. Dave Power of Town restaurant in Kaimuki, Hawaii prepares the Kina Beer Cocktail. Power is also a member of the council for the USBG Hawaii. january–february 201 1 / the tasting panel / 87

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