Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/23459
INTRO-VINOUS Home Rhône A story and photos by Rob Brown n early arrival finds Tercero winemaker Larry Schaffer balanced on top of a small fermentation tank, hidden beneath beautifully stacked barrels. The physical task of punching down has Schaffer out of breath, but excited about the new harvest. “This is the second Syrah pick from the Larner Vineyard,” he says. “It’s been in the tank for only four days and it already has deep, rich colors and beautiful aromas.” Hopping down and quickly moving to a second box, he removes the cover and waves his purple-stained hand over the crust of juice. “Feel that heat? That’s just the way I like it. This is the Larner Grenache. This should be ready to press in a few days.” Schaffer selects prime vineyards for Tercero’s single-vine- yard Rhône wines but particularly likes the Larner Vineyard at the southern end of Ballard Canyon in Santa Barbara County’s Santa Ynez Valley. “Ballard Canyon is one of the jewels in the area, with vineyards like Beckman, Purisma Mountain, Stolpman and Jonata. The Larner is completely sand, so the roots have to work extra hard to find water. The result is smaller clusters with intense flavors and high acid.” Schaffer’s 2007 Larner Syrah was the first release for Tercero from this vineyard, a spectacular vintage that he still considers a young wine. “It takes a good number of hours to come out. Initially it was full of fruit and spice, and as it ages it’s becoming more smokey and meaty—a wine in transition that is becoming more interesting.” After THE TASTING PANEL recently gave this Tercero release 93 points (“Publisher’s Picks,” October 2010), we wanted to know more about Schaffer and his intriguing Rhône varietals and blends. “I am a Grenache fanatic!” the vintner insists. In 2008, he put together a new blend of 50% Grenache and 50% Syrah from the Larner Vineyard, called Cuvée Loco. “My kids named it and designed the label,” Schaffer explains. “It starts out rela- tively primary and full of dark, rich blue fruit. As it opens up, it takes on more of the Grenache character of candied violets and a lot of herbs—kind of what I love about Grenache.” Still curious with the punch-down balancing act, I had to ask, “Have you ever fallen in?” “Yes, it’s part of earning your winemaker stripes,” he con- fides. “Slipped once and a foot went in before I caught myself. I had to walk into the cellar with one purple sock.” IN THE SANTA YNEZ VALLEY, FORMER PUBLISHER LARRY SCHAFFER FINDS HIS TRUE COLORS AT TERCERO VINEYARDS 20 / the tasting panel / january–february 201 1