Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/23459
WINE BRIEFS Chris Phelps, Swanson Vineyards C hris Phelps encountered his fi rst wine geek friend while fi ghting fi res in Idaho in 1976. “I was 19 and he was 20,” Phelps tells THE TASTING PANEL. “He was the one who convinced me to study enology at US Davis.” After graduating from U.C. Davis, Phelps took “every class in the upper-division enology programs” and interned with Bordeaux icon Christian Moueix in 1982. “What I soon would fi nd out is that he was looking for a Californian to run their new Napa wine estate,” Phelps recalls, “but he wanted me to work at Pétrus fi rst.” Phelps had three offers for internships and didn’t choose Pétrus. “I wasn’t fully awake at the time,” he admits. He did end up in St. Émilion working at Château des Laurets, a 90-acre estate (purchased by Benjamin and Ariane de Rothschild in 2003), which came with his own full-time consultant, available to him at any time. “It was trial by fi re, but my fi rst release, 1982, was a landmark vintage. I thought all Bordeaux was that exceptional!” In December 1982, Phelps became the founding winemaker at the newly created Dominus Napa Valley. From there, he made the famous reds at Caymus until seven years ago, when he was hired as winemaker for Swanson Vineyards in Napa Valley. “Swanson is a small, family-owned, 25,000-case winery. We control our own destiny,” he claims. Specializing in Merlot, Pinot Grigio and Cabernet Sauvignon, Phelps insists that too many wineries sell overly large portfolios. “Being clear in the marketplace is key, and going forward, I am going to concentrate even more on Cab. But I think talking varietals is a New World handicap. Let’s not talk about the varietal; let’s talk about the wine.” —Meridith May Chris Dash, Senior GM for Palomino restaurant in Westwood, CA has been carrying Swanson’s three wines—the Merlot, Pinot Grigio and Alexis Cabernet Sauvignon—for some time. “The wines have been a great partner with our Old World menu selection.” Pictured with him are Chris Phelps, winemaker for Swanson Vineyards, and Nikki Pellesen from The Henry Wine Group. Swanson 2006 Merlot, Oakville–Napa Valley ($36) This Merlot is all about texture. It glides across the palate in a wave of black fruit dipped in mocha coffee satin. 94 78 / the tasting panel / january–february 201 1 PHOTO: MERIDITH MAY