The Tasting Panel magazine

October 2013

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Lee Wardlow and Crag Jaffurs of Jaffurs Vineyards with their Bien Nacido Syrah. I Pres'quile winemaker Dieter Cronje and friend, Lindsay Kimura. n 1973, when property on California's Central Coast was devoted to raising cattle and agricultural crops, the Millers, a fifth-generation farming family, planted wine grapes in what would become two of California's most soughtafter vineyard sites: Bien Nacido and the Santa Maria Valley and French Camp Vineyards in Paso Robles, each celebrating four decades. On Saturday, August 10, the Miller family opened the gates to more than 150 winemakers, growers and distributors, with a party amid the vines at Bien Nacido's century-old Ontiveros Adobe. Today, more than 45 producers and growers buy fruit off the coveted Bien Nacido and French Camp properties. Jim Clendenen (Au Bon Climat) and Bob Lindquist (Qupé) continue to make their Bien Nacido wines on-site, and an array of up-and-coming winemakers are proud to have these prestigious vineyard designations on their labels. Steve Tylicki, General Manager for Steele Wines, has been working with Bien Nacido grapes since the 1990s. He buys 75 to 80 tons of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc each vintage. "The current management team, lead by the Millers and Vineyard Manager Chris Hammell, has things really dialed in," Tylicki comments. "Chris took the 900 acre vineyard and broke it into workable pieces." Santa Ynez Winemaker Rick Longoria has been buying fruit for 20 years from Bien Nacido. "I buy Pinot Noir from Block N for its feminine, spicy character," he tells THE TASTING PANEL. "The Millers elevated the level of grape growing, just adding to the already superb terroir." The Millers' willingness to collaborate with winemakers is appealing to those who know what they are Bien Nacido Vineyard Manager Chris Hammell and his wife Dayna. looking for in the final outcome of their juice. "Winemakers can choose the rows they want and also advise on how they are farmed," Longoria pointed out. Tasting the Anglim 2010 Viognier from Bien Nacido Vineyards gave insight to acidity with grace. "This is the only vineyard I have worked with where I actually have to wait for the acid levels to come down," points out Steve Anglim. "We are grateful to have forged these relationships with our winemaker partners," said Stephen Miller. "We're fortunate to work with the most talented wineries in California—and by definition, doesn't that mean the whole world?" "From a poetic and artistic perspective, the longevity of Bien Nacido Vineyards is a joy and a wonderful achievement," notes one of California's most influential winemakers, Jim Clendenen, who created Santa Barbara County's Au Bon Climat in 1982. "From a financial and business point of view, the continuity in ownership and the fabulous quality of the farming are testaments to the focus and acumen of the Miller family." Nicholas Miller, who oversees Bien Nacido Vineyards sales and marketing and his brother Marshall, were themselves honored by the people surrounding them at the celebration. "We have separated ourselves from other vineyards with a Mantra of Quality," stated Marshall Miller. French Camp Vineyards is also an industry leader in vineyard mechanization. "The best years are yet to come for these 40-year own-rooted vines," said Nicholas Miller in regard to Bien Nacido. "These are the roots of Santa Barbara County that stood the test of the ages." Library wines, such as this 1990 Reserve Bien Nacido Chardonnay from Au Bon Climat, were poured at the event. Longoria's Bien Nacido Pinot Noir. 112  /  the tasting panel  /  october 2013 TP1013_104-152.indd 112 9/23/13 10:34 PM

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