Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/148134
BLUE REVIEWS Sicily: Madeira and Beyond 88 Although MArsAlA is Sicily's most traditional wine, the historic Italian island also produces red and white varietals and blends—sometimes from ancient grape varieties—that are modern and food-friendly. Here are a few Sicilian wines I tasted recently. Fina 2011 Kikè, Sicilia ($18) A Traminer Aromatico and Sauvignon Blanc blend. Smooth and spicy with clean, juicy, mineral notes; long and mellow with lush texture. 88 90 89 92 Fina 2011 Taif, Sicilia ($18) A bright, dry and aromatic varietal Zibbibo, with notes of white peach and spice; smooth, fresh and juicy. Alcesti 2011 l'Isola dei Profumi Grecanico– Inzolia, Sicilia ($10) A crisp, aromatic white blend with lovely vanilla and soft fruit; mellow fresh and balanced; charming and long. Cantine Intorcia NV Marsala Superiore S.O.M. Semi-Dry ($22) Smooth and toasty with lovely rancio and spice; vanilla oak and some light sweetness; elegant, complex and long. Alcesti 2010 Ninfea, Sicilia ($24) A 60% Grillo/40% Chardonnay with bright acidity and generous fruit; clean, tangy and lush with spice and a long finish. 88 Alcesti 2010 Nero d'Avola, Sicilia ($15) Smooth, fresh and spicy with tangy plum and raspberry fruit; juicy and long, balanced and charming. 89 Cantine Bianchi NV Mirabella Sweet Malvasia, Sicilia ($15) Silky and bright with orange peel and spice; spicy, smooth and sweet with balance and complexity; long and luscious. 88 Fina 2011 Kebrilla Grillo, Sicilia ($15) The white Grillo is among the most ancient varieties in Sicily; pure fruit, mineral, aromatic and balanced with lovely style. 88 Dry Creek Vineyard 2012 Fumé Blanc, Sonoma County ($14) Silky and bright with tangy citrus and minerality; fresh, clean and racy on the finish. 88 Bota Box 2012 Pinot Grigio, California ($23/3L) Such a deal! Silky texture and balanced off-dry style; racy and fresh with crisp acidity and lots of charm. DFV WINES 95 Cantine Intorcia 1980 Marsala Superiore Riserva, Semi-Dry ($75) Creamy and rich with rancio, spice and great complexity; rich, layered and showing toasted flavors and great depth; an equal to tawny and a companion to Madiera. 95 Cantine Intorcia 1980 Marsala Superiore Riserva Ambra Dolce ($75) Creamy, toasty and bright with candied orange peel and lovely rancio; smooth, lush and complex. THESE WINES ARE IMPORTED BY UN PO' PAzzO, SAN FRANCISCO, CA. 88 Tormentoso 2010 Pinotage, Bush Vine, Paarl, South Africa ($13) Dense and rich with blackberry and tangy acidity with a bright, jucyi finish. 89% Pinotage, 11% Shiraz. 88 Tenuta Caparzo 2011 Sangiovese, Toscana, Italy ($14) Smooth and mellow with sweet oak, juicy plum, raspberry fruit and silky texture; fresh and generous with good length. VINEYARD BRANDS 88 Sledgehammer 2012 El Gaucho Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina ($12) Clean, smooth and juicy with ripe plum and raspberry; bright, tangy and generous. VINEYARD BRANDS 88 Soleca 2012 3 Generaciones Merlot, Central Valley, Chile ($12) Juicy raspberry and hints of oak; tangy and clean with spice and soft herbs. DANGEROUS WINE GROUP 80 / the tasting panel / august 2013 TP0813_066-103.indd 80 7/24/13 9:51 PM