Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/148134
known) has been pulling the odd shift and has been blown away by their operation. "From observing Jack McGarry and Sean Muldoon while I've been working at The Dead Rabbit, I've come to understand that they see the whole picture when they are on the floor or behind the bar. They might be chatting to guests, having a laugh with old friends or simply listening to the Irish musicians playing at the end of the bar, but all the time, they are taking in the mood of the bar, feeling the vibe and tweaking every last aspect to make sure that everyone feels welcome, comfortable and happy. It's a joy to behold. I've learned a lot in a very short time from these guys." We discuss the few bars around the city that have what we call "complete bar programs" that deliver cocktail menus designed with the guest in mind and not other bartenders while providing an experience for people. The Dead Rabbit is indeed that place, while McGarry pays me a similar compliment for the work I've done with the bar program at Saxon + Parole. We finish our pints and talk about how overly serious things have become in our industry and Jack concludes by saying, "We're here to make people happy by being hospitable while providing drinks that are accessible. I think there's a change coming. We're getting back to grass-roots bartending that is service focused." Amen to that. Naren Young is also a well-known and respected New York–based mixologist, and runs the bar program at Saxon + Parole. Punch Time In a room called The Parlor—a more civilized, seating-only affair—McGarry has six punches on rotation with each one served, gratis, in tiny tea cups to every guest as a very thoughtful and welcome gesture. I'm sipping on something bright and ethereal called the Grandeur, with Bols Genever, anise, lemon sherbet, orange flower water and peppermint tea and attributed on the menu to the seminal 1888 Bartender's Manual by Harry Johnson. It's a simple touch that sends a message far beyond the fact that McGarry makes wonderful drinks. august 2013 / the tasting panel / 89 TP0813_066-103.indd 89 7/24/13 9:51 PM