The Tasting Panel magazine

August 2013

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Page 108 of 148

RESTAURANTS THAT MATTER Beyond Beans and Cod HISTORIC BOSTON MOVES INTO CUTTING-EDGE CULINARY WATERS by Merrill Shindler PHOTO COURTESY OF TAVERN ROAD Tavern Road assorted dishes PHOTO COURTESY OF AREA FOUR The pizzas at Area Four. T hink of the cuisine of Boston and there's a good chance that what will come to mind is John Collins Bossidy's famous "Boston Toast": And this is good old Boston, The home of the bean and the cod, Where the Lowells talk only to Cabots And the Cabots talk only to God. It's also likely that the bar from Cheers will come to mind, along with the famously grouchy waitresses at DurginPark and the shellfish at the Old Union Oyster House, which dates back to 1826. And yet, the cooking of Boston is far from preserved in amber. Boston and adjacent Cambridge are major college towns. And college towns inspire restaurants with an edge; it's no coincidence that Chez Panisse opened just down the block from U.C. Berkeley. And it's no coincidence that the very edgy Area Four sits in Cambridge's techiest neighborhood, so close to MIT and various high-tech that it shares a common lawn with a world of heavy thinkers, deeply engrossed in their iPads. The cooking at Area Four is built around a pair of wood-burning ovens that glow inside the open kitchen, out of which come an array of blackened 92  /  the tasting panel  /  august 2013 TP0813_066-103.indd 92 7/24/13 9:52 PM

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