Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/977771
Creston District sub-AVAs. There, they continue to innovate within the realm of viticulture while exploring the eastern reaches of Paso Robles. "We're jumping feet first into these areas: using new clones, higher-density plantings, and really pushing the boundaries of the quality that can be achieved in these sub-AVAs," explains Riboli. "There's a new frontier occurring in Creston and El Pomar, which are just coming into their own. They're still in their infancy in many ways." In 2013, vines for their first estate vineyard in the El Pomar District were planted on what was once cattle-grazing land. They named the property Stefano Vineyard after Riboli's grandfather, who celebrated his 96th birthday last year. Although summer temperatures often reach the triple digits, the vineyard is in the path of the Templeton Gap and its afternoon breezes, which provide cooling relief for the vines. The undulating slopes of the property allowed them to carefully map the vineyard and plant varieties equipped to thrive at each site. Viognier, for example, was planted on a north-facing slope to better preserve acidity. The 2016 vintage also marked the family's very first vineyard designate release from Stefano: The lively wine displays notes of fresh pineapple and aloe with restrained opulence, serving to high- light the acidity that can sometimes be lost in warm-climate Viogniers. Beating the Heat Steady rains and moderate tempera- tures in 2017 made for an ideal growing season for San Simeon, and its first two releases from the vintage have made their debut just in time for summer. "Frankly, I'm a big rosé drinker, so we decided we'd make some this year," Riboli says. The San Simeon 2017 Stefano Vineyard Grenache Rosé was grown and harvested intention- ally to be an easy sipper on a hot day alongside a plate of charcuterie. Produced from grapes planted on the upper part of a south-facing hillside, the salmon-colored rosé is full yet refresh- ing with flavors of wild strawberries and a tanginess reminiscent of watermelon Jolly Ranchers. Vibrant and expressive, the San Simeon 2017 Sauvignon Blanc feels like summer in a glass, with aromas of ripe guava, lime zest, and ocean air. A small portion was fermented in neutral French oak with lees stirring for several months, adding weight and elevated flavors of white grapefruit pith, tar- ragon, and golden berries. As this prolific family continues to expand and push the limits in their vineyards and winery, we're excited to see the evolution of the San Simeon brand and the expressions released from these estate properties. The Riboli Family Wine Estates team: Arnaud Debons, Head Winemaker for the Los Angeles winery; Anthony Riboli, fourth-generation family winemaker; and Ben Mayo, Winemaker for the Paso Robles winery. San Simeon 2014 Estate Reserve Stormwatch, Paso Robles ($70) One of the most dramatic Bordeaux blends from the region: the substantial body, the aromas of graphite and blackberry-licorice, and the measurable layers of flavors. Violets surge through lively black fruit, etching a dimensional palate of soil and dark chocolate-espresso. Chewy with a decisively long, expansive finish. 98 —Meridith May San Simeon 2014 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles ($30) Bright raspberry and currant jam on the nose along with a hint of spearmint lead to a weighted wine with dense boysenberry on the palate. A fine acidity keeps the fruit fresh, and tannins are round and silky. The wine is dotted with black pepper and a dusty coating of cocoa. 94 —M.M. San Simeon 2017 Grenache Rosé, Stefano Vineyard, Paso Robles ($18) Personality-plus! Ripe red ber- ries, salted peach, and juicy melon combine for a crisp, expressive wine. Dried rose petals are a lovely mark on the finish. 92 —M.M. San Simeon 2015 Estate Reserve Chardonnay, Monterey County ($18) A charming perfume of honeyed lemon, a drop of caramel, and an herbal essence of chamomile support a winning start for this modern Chardonnay. Mouth-filling with medium weight, melon and lemongrass—as well as a ripe pineapple middle—create an effect of light on the oak for a wine heavy on brightness! 93 —M.M. may 2018 / the tasting panel / 7