Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/977771
6 / the tasting panel / may 2018 by Michelle Ball photos by Jeremy Ball The coastline that runs along Highway 1 from San Simeon through Big Sur is one of the most rugged yet inspiring vistas on the West Coast. For decades, this epic landscape has intrigued many high-profile visitors, including newspaper mogul William Randolph Hearst. In 1919, the tycoon broke ground on his colossal estate, Hearst Castle, which overlooks the coastal town. That landscape also served as the inspiration for a collection of estate wines made by the Riboli family: San Simeon Wines. The collection's recent packaging update vividly illustrates the Piedras Blancas Lighthouse, a historic structure that illuminates the rocky shore along San Simeon. The name evokes the spirit of the Central Coast and its maritime effect on the winegrowing regions to the east, which are home to the Riboli family's estate vineyards. The Ocean's Influence "The ocean is what's creating all of the influence here," says San Simeon Wines Winemaker Anthony Riboli as he describes the coastal impact on his family's estate vineyards in both Paso Robles and Monterey. He represents the fourth generation of winemaking in the Riboli family, whose viticultural tradi- tion began in 1917. In Paso Robles, a series of passes in the mountain range create an opening for airflow from the west. Known as the Templeton Gap, this geological feature pushes cool breezes east into the otherwise hot, arid climate, fanning the vines in the late afternoon. This juxtaposition causes large diurnal temperature swings of up to 50 degrees Fahrenheit, which allow for solid ripening and acid retention. In addition to the climatic influence, the vines also benefit from the region's widespread calcareous soils: the result of marine deposits laid down over millions of years. "Those are two very critical parts of Paso Robles that make it unique, and they're both directly related to the ocean," adds Riboli. North of Paso Robles lies a deep marine canyon known as Monterey Bay. Nicknamed the "Blue Grand Canyon," this icy body of water pushes fog inland, where it hovers over the Santa Lucia Highlands and Arroyo Seco AVAs into the late morning. Without the marine factor, this area would have been a warm-climate growing region, which is why the University of California, Davis suggested growers plant Bordeaux varieties here in the 1970s. In reality, the bay creates an envi- ronment better suited for cool-climate grapes such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. "We began owning vineyards here in the 1980s, and that's given us the opportunity to understand the nuances of these sub-AVAs and try out different clones," Riboli says as we discuss his family's estate properties in Monterey. For example, their Chardonnay from the Sarmento Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA tends to display racier green-apple characteristics, while the same grape from their vineyards in the lower Arroyo Seco AVA exhibits rounder, more tropical fruit flavors. Blended together, they create the San Simeon Monterey Chardonnay, a refreshing yet approachable wine with supple yellow fruit and balanced acidity. Paso Possibilities During the past few years, the Riboli family has made significant investments in Paso Robles, where they've planted five estate vineyards and built a new state-of-the-art winery. The Ribolis previously contracted with growers throughout the region and made their wine at custom-crush facilities before their experience steered them to properties in the El Pomar District and PHOTO: JEREMY BALL PHOTO: JEREMY BALL San Simeon's 2017 Rosé and Sauvignon Blanc are perfect for summer sipping. The view overlooking the rolling hills of Stefano Vineyard in the El Pomar District of Paso Robles. Hot days and cool nights allow for even ripening and acid retention, making Paso Robles an ideal growing region for Cabernet Sauvignon. suggested Bordeaux in the ronment for such Pinot Hot days allow and making