Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/960891
april 2018 / the tasting panel / 65 Size ( Sometimes) Maers Call it a trend within a trend: This year, James reveals she's excited to buy more large-format rosés. "At Cote [steakhouse], we believe bigger is better," she says, adding that magnums keep the wine younger and fresher in addition to being more striking aesthetically. "With less overall expo- sure to the effects of oxygen through the cork, the aging process of wine in a magnum takes around one and a half times longer than a normal bottle." James did caution, however, that the focus on size can often become "gim- micky," as less-prestigious producers will bottle cheap wine in big bottles in an attempt to capitalize on magnums' popularity ("Mass-marketed swill that is produced with industrial yeast and made to all taste the same—no thanks," James quips). Like Arnold, James recommends consumers prioritize seeking out producers known for making high-quality wine before they purchase larger bottles. Rosé-themed events provide yet another opportunity for industry members and consumers alike to build excitement around the category. Bacchanal holds an annual backyard party, where, according to Briand, attendees consistently seek out rosés as their drink of choice. Bacchanal also hosts an annual Rosé Fest, which features 60 different rosés poured by an array of distributors. Guests then vote on their favorite label, with the winner remaining stocked in the store for the full year. "Everyone dresses in pink and we have music going throughout the day as we celebrate rosé," Briand says, describing the event as "one of the busiest days all year." As rosé climbs in popularity, its well-deserved reputation as a stellar option for food and wine pairing has as well. Briand recommends pairing a darker-hued Tavel with heartier foods, while Arnold suggests a lighter rosé like Domaine de Triennes, which works well with seafood dishes like the ahi tuna tostada at Lettuce Entertain You's restaurant Summer House Santa Monica in Santa Monica, California. James, meanwhile, outlines an array of classic recipes and rosé pairings from chefs and sommeliers around the world in her book, citing chef/restau- rateur Alice Waters' anchovy toasts paired with Domaine Tempier Bandol rosé as one of her favorite match-ups. Ultimately, Briand believes the true allure of rosé lies in its ability to encourage customers to expand their horizons sans apprehension—espe- cially given the category's affordability. "I think one of the great things about rosé is that people have an open mind about trying new things," he says. "It's always fun to have a table of people trying multiple rosés from all over the place; they might start in Provence, and before you know it, we've got them drinking rosé from Lebanon and a Ciliegiolo rosé from [the Italian region] Liguria." Fashionable, reasonably- priced, and coveted around the world? No wonder this wayfaring wine is always in season. PHOTOS COURTESY OF BACCHANAL Bacchanal Wines hosts an annual Rosé Fest featuring 60 rosés poured by an array of distributors. Guests then vote on their favorite label, with the winner remaining stocked in the store for the full year. New Orleans' Bacchanal Wines offers 25-plus rosé wines in its store. Founder Chris Rudge—who died in 2015—"was a serious warrior for rosé before it was cool," according to Bacchanal Wine Director Joe Briand. Low Risk, High Reward