Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/960891
A Master Somm Takes on the Tequila Industry: Astral Tequila Richard Betts, MS, is the ninth person in the world to pass the Court of Master Sommeliers' Masters exam on the very first try. Now he's soaring to new heights with the appropriately- named Astral, a meticulously-crafted artisanal blanco tequila that won a Double Gold Medal at the 2016 San Francisco World Spirits Competition. "I wanted to return to tequila because I was so sorely disappointed in the way the spirit had evolved to something so devoid of character," Betts says. "I then wanted to explore how to make something reflective of the way it was produced in a time gone by. It's really a throwback to heritage tequila, the likes of which have not been made in decades." After maturation, the single-estate organic agaves harvested for Astral are slow roasted in traditional stone ovens, or hornos. The spirit is produced using native yeast fermentation, which takes eight times longer than conventional fermentation. The bagazos—the solid pulp from the crushed roasted agaves—is retained during the fermentation process to capture maximum agave character. Copper pot–distilled and bottled at a higher-than-normal 92 proof, Astral fills the mouth with a rich floral spice that can be served neat or used in any number of cocktails. Tasting Notes Astral Tequila Blanco ($40) The nose engages with sweet lime and brown sugar while floral flavors of lilac and creamy magnolia paint the palate. A distinct salinity forms a path through vanilla bean and grapefruit. The finish is luxe: You can taste the terroir. 94 —M.M. DAVOS BRANDS 96 / the tasting panel / april 2018 A Terroir easure: Chinaco Tequila A lesser-known region of the five Mexican states permitted by law to produce agave, Tamaulipas sits close to the Gulf of Mexico. With its coastal breezes and soil rich in minerals, the region offers plentiful benefits to producers like Chinaco; named after the landowners in Mexico who became known as fierce fighters in the 1800s, the company sources most of its agave from this underrated region. Chinaco Tequila Blanco—which won a Double Gold at the Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America spirits competi- tion in 2017—joins Chinaco Reposado and Chinaco Tequila Añejo in featuring this agave, which slowly roasts for 12 hours. Utilizing a signature yeast strain, fermentation occurs in steel tanks before the spirit undergoes distillation in copper-lined alembic stills. The Blanco is bottled within 30 days of distillation, while the Reposado ages for eight to 11 months and the Añejo rests for two and a half to three years in a mix of casks. As one of the first premium tequilas to enter the U.S. market in the 1980s, Chinaco proves that a high-quality product has staying power. Tasting Notes Chinaco Blanco Tequila ($35) The distinctive nose includes vanilla bean and sweet agave. On the palate, the sweetness blooms, caressing the palate while a thread of spice weaves through. Expressive notes of sugar beets, lime blossom, salted caramel, and clay interplay through to the finish. 94 —M.M. Chinaco Reposado Tequila ($55) Perfumed with exotic spice and floral notes: sandalwood and jasmine mingle with lanolin, lime, and brown sugar. On the palate, these aromas, flavors, and spices merge for an exquisite mouthfeel. It simultaneously melts and sparks. 96 —M.M. Chinaco Añejo Tequila ($65) Chinaco Añejo's unique aromas include apple, toffee, orange rind, and cedar. Cinnamon and clove spice the tongue, while cherry oak is profoundly dramatic mid-palate. The finely aged tequila offers a hint of tobacco and mineral-driven agave notes on the finish. 93 —M.M. HOTALING & CO.